2003 Toyota Echo

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 TOYOTA ECHO. WHILE DRIVING 15 MPH, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED RAPIDLY ON ITS OWN WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. DUE TO THE FAILURE, THE VEHICLE RAN A RED LIGHT. THE CONTACT PULLED INTO A DRIVEWAY AND TURNED OFF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT CALLED FITZGERALD TOYOTA GAITHERSBURG AT (301) 921-0300 (LOCATED AT 907 N FREDERICK AVE, GAITHERSBURG, MD 20879), BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 80,000. *TT CONSUMER STATED CALLED FITZGERALD TOYOTA BACK AFTER THEY CALLED. THE SERVICE MANAGER TOLD ME THAT IT SHOULD NOT HAPPEN, BUT TO DO A DIAGNOSTIC WOULD BE $180/HR. HE SAID THEY COULD LOOK AT IT. IT HAS BEEN SERVICED FOR ENTIRE TIME THAT WE HAVE HAD AND NO PROBLEMS, I WAS NOT GOING TO PAY $180/HR TO HAVE THAT DONE, WHEN REPOTS FROMECHP BURNERS HAVE HAD SAME PROBLEM AND TOYOTA WON'T FIX. UPDATED 10/16/18*JB

NHTSA ID

11114791

Incident

Jul 18, 2018

Mileage

80,000 mi

ON MARCH 17, 2005 I PURCHASED A 2003 TOYOTA ECHO FROM TOYOTA OF NASHUA IN NEW HAMPSHIRE. AFTER PURCHASING THE CAR AND LEAVING TOYOTA OF NASHUA TO DRIVE HOME, THE ENGINE STOPPED AS I APPROACHED A STOPLIGHT AT THE END OF THE HIGHWAY EXIT NEAR MY HOUSE. I HAD SIMPLY DEPRESSED THE CLUTCH TO COAST TOWARD THE RED LIGHT. I DIDN'T THINK MUCH OF IT AT THE TIME, ASSUMING THAT IT STALLED DUE TO STALE GAS. HOWEVER, THE ENGINE CONTINUED TO QUIT PERIODICALLY. SOMETIMES THE ENGINE WOULD QUIT SEVERAL TIMES IN A WEEK AND THEN GO SEVERAL MONTHS WITH NO PROBLEM. WHEN I TOOK THE CAR IN TO HAVE THE OIL CHANGED ON JUNE 2, 2005 I DESCRIBED THE PROBLEM TO THE SERVICE MANAGER AND ASKED THAT IT BE FIXED. AT THAT TIME, THE CAR HAD 28,606 MILES ON IT AND WAS STILL UNDER FACTORY WARRANTY. THE TECHNICIAN COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. (SERVICE REPORT IS AVAILABLE) THE PROBLEM PERSISTED THROUGHOUT THE FOLLOWING YEAR SO WHEN I BROUGHT THE CAR IN TO BE INSPECTED ON JUNE 29, 2006, I ASKED THE SERVICE MANAGER TO HAVE A TECHNICIAN USE THE CAR TO COMMUTE TO WORK UNTIL THE PROBLEM WAS DIAGNOSED AND FIXED. ON JULY 19, 2006, THE DEALER CALLED AND ASKED ME TO PICK UP THE CAR. THE CAR HAD BEEN DRIVEN 787 MILES, BUT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. WHEN I WENT TO PICK UP THE CAR THE SERVICE MANAGER TOLD ME THAT I HAD TO PAY FOR THE DIAGNOSTIC. I REFUSED BECAUSE THE DEFECT HAD NOT BEEN FIXED AND THE CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. AFTER SOME DISCUSSION WITH ANOTHER MANAGER, THEY AGREED NOT TO CHARGE ME, BUT TOLD ME THAT IF I BROUGHT THE CAR IN AGAIN FOR THIS PROBLEM I WOULD BE CHARGED. (SERVICE REPORT IS AVAILABLE) THE PROBLEM PERSISTS TO THIS DAY. I DRIVE THE CAR ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY AND COMPENSATE FOR THE PROBLEM BY DOWNSHIFTING WHEN COASTING OR COMING TO A STOP TO KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING. RECENTLY, THE ENGINE QUIT WHILE MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING NEARLY RESULTING IN AN ACCIDENT. *TR

NHTSA ID

10574167

Incident

Mar 17, 2005

Mileage

25,834 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 TOYOTA ECHO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HIS SPOUSE WAS DRIVING AT APPROX 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO ACCELERATE. THE DRIVER HAD TO STEER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND HIT A SNOWBANK TO AVOID A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. THE CONTACT NOTICED NO PRIOR EXPERIENCES WITH THE SUDDEN ACCELERATION BEFORE THAT DAY. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALERSHIP AND THE DEALER TEST DROVE THE VEHICLE AND RAN DIAGNOSTICS TESTS. THE DEALER STATED THAT THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED AT THE TIME OF THE COMPLAINT. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 63,800. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 63,536. UPDATED 03/30/10 *BF UPDATED 07/07/10.*JB

NHTSA ID

10312627

Incident

Feb 13, 2010

Mileage

63,536 mi

2003 TOYOTA ECHO WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION SHUTS OFF WHEN SLOWING OR STOPPING, ESPECIALLY ON DOWNGRADES WHEN CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED. I HAVE LEARNED TO LESSEN THESE OCCURRENCES BY NOT PUSHING IN THE CLUTCH UNTIL THE CAR IS ALMOST STOPPED, BY NEVER COASTING WITH THE CLUTCH IN, AND BY MAKING TURNS WITH THE CAR IN GEAR. BECAUSE IT DOESN'T ALWAYS HAPPEN, IT NEVER HAS HAPPENED FOR THE DEALER OR OTHER MECHANICS, SO THEY SAY THEY CAN'T FIX IT. OR THEY TELL ME THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR IN 2005. THE DATE I AM USING FOR THE INCIDENT IS THE MOST RECENT TIME IT HAPPENED. *TR

NHTSA ID

10297234

Incident

Dec 13, 2009

Mileage

13 mi

FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE OF THIS VEHICLE I HEAR A HIGH PITCHED WHINE COMING FROM THE CAR. FROM DOING RESEARCH ON FORUM SITES DEDICATED TO THE ECHO IT SEEMS TO BE COMMON ON ALL CARS. THE WHINE IS LOUDEST ON THE HIGHWAY BETWEEN 45 - 65 MPH. I CONTACTED TWO DIFFERENT DEALERS ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND I WAS TOLD TO REMOVE MY STOCK HUB CAPS / THIS DOES NOT WORK. I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT TOYOTA WILL NOT LOOK INTO THE ISSUE DUE TO THE CAR BEING DISCONTINUED. *JB

NHTSA ID

10174137

Incident

Feb 28, 2003

Mileage

8 mi

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE VEHICLE COMMONLY SHUTS OFF WHILE BRAKING OR DECELERATING TO 20 MPH. THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN TO A SERVICE DEALER TWICE BUT THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE ISSUE.

NHTSA ID

10170791

Incident

Apr 1, 2005

Mileage

13,000 mi

I OWN A 2004 ECHO. THERE ARE 3 MAIN PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE. ONE; THE TRANSMISSION HESITATES WHEN ITS SWITCHING GEARS. THIS IS AN AUTOMATIC. TWO; I WAS IN A CAR ACCIDENT ON DECEMBER 2, AND NONE OF THE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED. THREE; A LOT OF TIMES WHEN I TRY TO START THE CAR, IT STALLS. *NM

NHTSA ID

10157550

Incident

May 15, 2006

THIS INVOLVES MY UNCLE THOMAS BARRETT'S TOYOTA ECHO. THE VEHICLE STRUCK ANOTHER VEHICLE. NEITHER AIR BAG DEPLOYED AND THE PASSENGER SIDE SEAT BELT DID NOT TENSION. THE PASSENGER OCCUPANT WAS INJURED. *JB

NHTSA ID

10136828

Incident

Sep 7, 2005

Mileage

29,000 mi

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.

The condition known as acid rain is caused by airborne chemicals or particles in the atmosphere, which mix with rainwater, nighttime dew, or high humidity to form acidic compounds. If these contaminants settle and remain on a painted vehicle surface, especially the horizonal areas of the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage can occur. This damage is the result of actual etching of the paint and appears as pitting or water spots. As acid rain droplets on the vehicle surface evaporate, the concentration strength of the acid increases, causing deeper and more rapid damage. This evaporation and corrosive action also occur more rapidly on dark colored cars as direct sun heat increases. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. In areas known for high frequency and/or concentration of acid rain, frequent vehicle washing during high heat or humidity periods will minimize the potential for paint damage caused by acid rain. It is further recommended that either reverse osmosis or deionized water be used to prevent water spotting.

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.

Toyota vehicles are currently protected with RapgardTM protective film designed to protect the horizontal painted surfaces. This material protects from acid rain, environmental fallout, and rail contamination. Follow the Removal Procedure in this bulletin to remove the RapgardTM protective film within 90 days from initial application.

The condition known as acid rain is caused by airborne chemicals or particles in the atmosphere, which mix with rainwater, nighttime dew, or high humidity to form acidic compounds. If these contaminants settle and remain on a painted vehicle surface, especially the horizonal areas of the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage can occur. This damage is the result of actual etching of the paint and appears as pitting or water spots. As acid rain droplets on the vehicle surface evaporate, the concentration strength of the acid increases, causing deeper and more rapid damage. This evaporation and corrosive action also occur more rapidly on dark colored cars as direct sun heat increases. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. In areas known for high frequency and/or concentration of acid rain (see Figure 1), frequent vehicle washing during high heat or humidity periods will minimize the potential for paint damage caused by acid rain. It is further recommended that either reverse osmosis or deionized water be used to prevent water spotting.

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.