Owner-reported complaints naming the electrical system, filed with NHTSA
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Reports naming the electrical system — wiring, battery, charging, control modules, infotainment and electrical accessories. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2011 Honda CR-V submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 55 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
The 25 most recent of 55, in the owner's own words
Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2011 Honda CR-V. The contact discovered a mileage discrepancy after the purchase. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the mileage was 106,000. It was later discovered upon checking a Carfax Report that the mileage was 206,086.
DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. It is constantly malfunctioning. You are driving with small kids, and the doors keep unlocking and locking as the vehicle is in motion. I am very concerned, especially with children inside. It gets to a point that it sounds like a machine gun while you are driving, so, if you forget about it, suddenly you hear the loud noise and you think there is a drive by shooting nearby. There was a class action lawsuit regarding this a few years ago and a recall on this part. Today I locked my car after I parked and went into my house, suddenly I heard this horn noise on and off by itself without touching the key or the fob. I find this extremely dangerous. Let's say you get trapped inside your car and suddenly you cannot get out. I looked a little dipper and found out that Honda did not want to fix this issue. This is unacceptable and very unfair. Is there something someone can do to remediate it?
The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle stalled with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to restart. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that a wiring harness had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 170,000.
I'm driving along and the car door locks don't recognize that there already locked. They keep going off. The car is shut off and the door locks keep going off and the dom light keeps coming on every time the doors lock even though they are already locked. I couldn't get out of my car the other day because of this. I know now why someone sold it to the dealer ship. I've had the car a couple of months and I'm ready to sell it. I don't feel safe. Also the navigation date will not stay on the current day of 2024. It keeps rebooting back to Feb 2005. I bought it July 25, 2024 for $14,835. Apparently, I'm not the only car out there that has this problem. Why is this not being fixed. It is a SAFETY HAZARD TO GET LOCKED IN YOUR VEHICLE AND CANT GET OUT. I HAD TO CALL ROAD SIDE ASST. This is unacceptable when I pay this kind of money for a vehicle.
Sporadically the passenger rear door and trunk will lock (then unlock randomly) and there’s no getting them unlocked using the fob nor using the unlock button. The door simply has to unlock itself and the only way to get the trunk opened (till it decides to unlock itself) is to crawl thru the backseat and pull the inside lever.
IT SEEMS ALL DOOR LOCKS ARE BUZZING AND HAVE DIFFICULTY OPENING/CLOSING. IT HAPPENS DURING UNLOCKING AND LOCKING OF DOORS USING EITHER THE REMOTE KEY OR REGULAR KEY. ALSO MAKES BUZZING NOISE WHEN RUNNING THE 1ST 0-10MPH (FROM MOST FULL STOP). IT SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE OFTEN ON THE DRIVER AND RIGHT PASSENGER DOORS. BOUGHT THIS USED CAR IN MID-2023.
My driver door and my back hatchback door would not open or unlock. I tried the actual key in the drivers door would not open and I tried two different remotes & neither would open the driver door or the back hatchback. I’m having to replace the actuator in both doors at this time!
Faulty actuator in front passenger door, door remains locked shut and as a result the hatch is also locked shut due to connection between doors. Honda has quoted me $900 to repair including needing to destroy interior panel and pay to replace part due to issue that was recalled in 2007-09 CR-V's. Approximately mileage is 160,000.
The doors are automatically locking at 9 MPH while driving - when you initially pull out and meet the speed of 9 MPH AND then every time thereafter your speed is 9 MPH the doors will all lock. Passenger door and now rear hatch door does not unlock using the key remote OR the inside button to unlock. Currently all other doors are working.
Actuator that controls locks has gone out twice in 3 years. It is approximately $500 to replace. Vehicle randomly locks itself over and over when powered on or off. Sometimes power locks will not unlock any doors including the hatch.
At the beginning of the current year, 2002, the date displayed on the navigation system reverted to 2002 and the time changed to an incorrect time. No DIY user solutions have worked to fix these software issues. Honda has reported these issues in a number of vehicle models and claim they will "self-correct" eight months (August, 2022) from now.
Honda Nav system reverted to 2002 and can be reset to correct date and time. System not getting online updates from sat in a timely manor. It appears to also be causing issues with on line CPU - on dash mileage reports on gas consumption will bounce from 5 MPG to 70MPG then may stay stable for a while.
The door lock actuator has malfunctioned in my 2011 Honda CRV and this is not covered under a recall or warranty. This has caused my vehicle doors to not be able to open as well, my hatch will not unlock to enable me to open that. There was no warning or any other symptoms prior. From a safety perspective, if I were to be in an accident and have passengers in my vehicle, they would be unable to exit the vehicle if they were in the backseat of my vehicle. Also, how do I know that this won't eventually affect the drivers door which will then cause me to not be able to exit the vehicle in the event of an emergency.
DOORS ARE NOT UNLOCKING ON MY 2011 HONDA CR-V. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. I PARKED THE CAR OVERNIGHT AND THE DOORS WON'T UNLOCK. ON FURTHER INVESTIGATION, I SAW THAT DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCK IS STUCK. IT WON'T UNLOCK WITH KEY FOB NOR WITH THE KEY. VERY VERY DANGEROUS. MEANING, NOW I EITHER I HAVE TO KEEP THE WINDOWS DOWN AND FEAR THE CAR BEING STOLEN OR FEAR I WON'T BE ABLE TO COME OUT OF THE CAR IN THE EVENT OF AN CRASH. I SAW ONLINE THAT THERE ARE COUNTLESS COMPLAINTS ABOUT LOCK ACTUATORS BEING FAULTY BUT HONDA STILL DID NOT ISSUE A RECALL.
IT APPEARS HONDA HAS A KNOWN DEFECT CONCERNING THE DRIVER DOOR LOCKING AND UNLOCKING MECHANISM AND THEY CHOOSE TO MAKE THE CONSUMER RESPONSIBLE FOR THE COST OF REPAIR AND IF DAMAGE CAUSED BY THEIR EFFORTS TO REPAIR THE CUSTOMER'S RESPONSIBILITY.THANKFULLY THE 1,800 QUOTE TO REPLACE THE DOOR PANEL WAS AVOIDED; HOWEVER, I WAS CHARGED $839.74 (391.15 PARTS AND 360 FOR LABOR AT DUVAL HONDA). THE DRIVER DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK, WHICH EFFECTED THE TRUNK INABILITY TO OPEN AND I HAD TO GET IN AND OUT BY LEAVING THE PASSENGER SIDE UNLOCKED AND MANUALLY UNLOCKING THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET IN AND OUT OF THE 2011 CRV-EX. IF I WASN'T FLEXIBLE I WOULD HAVE BEEN TRAPPED IN MY OWN CAR, WHICH IS A SAFETY ISSUE. IT IS DISAPPOINTING OF HONDA'S LACK OF ACCOUNTABILITY.
I'M LEAVING TARGET A BASKET FULL OF GROCERIES AROUND 7 PM MARCH 13-2021, USING MY KEY THROB AND KEY HOLE ON THE DOOR I WAS UNSUCCESSFUL UNLOCKING THE DOOR OR TRUNK. I MANAGED TO UNLOCK THE PASSENGER DOOR TO GET OVER TO THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR TO MANUALLY TRY TO OPEN THE DOOR AND THE LOCK DID NOT MOVE. I SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT 3-23-2019 THE DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED THE CRV AND THEY DID NOT SEEM TO BE AWARE OF MY DOOR ISSUE BEING COMMON AND I WAS NEVER INFORMED DURING ANY OF MY SERVICE APPOINTMENTS WITH THEM. I SPOKE WITH NEAL THE SERVICE DEPT DIRECTOR AND WAS TOLD THE WARRANTY FOR MY CAR ENDED IN 2017 SO I AM RESPONSIBLE FOR MY REPAIRS. MY SERVICE ADVISOR CHARGES $60 FOR DIAGNOSIS, THEN CALLS BACK AND SAYS THE COST JUST WENT UP TO $150 BECAUSE THEY WERE HAVING A HARD TIME OPENING THE DOOR, THEN STATES THEY WILL HAVE TO KEEP MY CAR ANOTHER DAY AND THAT I WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR REPAIRS OF A NEW DOOR PANEL IF THEY DAMAGE IT IN THEIR EFFORT TO OPEN THE DOOR AND THAT THE COST WOULD BE $1,800. I NEED MY TRANSPORTATION, MY CAR IS PAID IN FULL, I'M UNDERSTANDING WHY THEY CHOSE NOT TO REVEAL OR BE DUMBFOUNDED WHEN I MENTIONED ACCORDING TO THE LAWSUIT IT WAS TO REPAIR THE DOORS RATHER YOU WERE EXPERIENCING THE PROBLEM OR NOT. IT'S THEIR PRODUCT BUT THEY DON'T WANT ACCOUNTABILITY FOR A KNOWN ISSUE. I DROVE HOME WITH MY WINDOWS DOWN IN CASE I NEEDED TO CLIMB OUT THE WINDOW. I WAS HAVING AN ANXIETY ATTACK AFRAID I WOULD BE TRAPPED IN MY CAR INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. NEAL SAYS IT WASN'T A SAFETY ISSUE SO IT WAS AN EXTENDED WARRANTY VS A RECALL. IT IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE ON SO MANY LEVELS. I'M JUST SURPRISED I NEVER KNEW ABOUT THE ISSUE UNTIL I STARTED EXPERIENCING THE PROBLEM.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER EXITING THE VEHICLE AND LOCKING THE DOORS AND WALKING AWAY, THE SECURITY ALARM INADVERTENTLY ACTIVATED. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO LOCK THE VEHICLE WITHOUT THE ALARM BEING ACTIVATED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE LOCAL DEALER HONDA OF MANSFIELD WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 147,000.
I HAVE A CRV THAT I PURCHASED NEW IN 2011. DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD AND SEVERAL YEARS AFTER THAT I HAD ALL THE MAINTENANCE WORK DONE AT THE DEALERSHIP. RECENTLY I HAD TWO DOORS THAT I CANNOT OPEN WITH THE REMOTE OR KEY, THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR AND THE HATCH BACK DOOR. HONDA WANTS TO CHARGE ME OVER $800 TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM. WHAT IF ALL DOORS LOCK UP AND I CANNOT GET INTO MY CAR; WILL I HAVE TO PAY OVER $3000 TO GET INTO MY CAR? EVEN IF HAD EXTENDED INSURANCE WITH 3RD PARTIES, THIS IS NOT COVERED, I CHECKED. ISN'T THIS ON HONDA? *TR
INTERMITTEN NOISES FROM THE RIGHT REAR LOCK MOTOR/WINDOW WHILE DRIVING.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. WHILE IN TRAFFIC, THE CONTACT POWERED OFF THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO DRIVE; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED SEVERAL TIMES. IN ADDITION, WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT AND ATTEMPTING TO DEPRESS THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO FLOW HONDA (2600 PETERS CREEK PKWY, WINSTON-SALEM, NC 27127, (336) 785-3380) WHERE A DIAGNOSTIC TESTING WAS COMPLETED, BUT NO FAILURE CODE WAS FOUND. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 96,000.
DOOR LOCK ACUATOR. DOORS LOCK AND UNLOCK RAPIDLY WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.
THE AIR BAG HAS A PROBLEM AND CHECK ENGINE COMES OFF AND ON
TAKATA RECALL DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE FRONT AIR BAGS HAVE BEEN REPLACED. SINCE REPLACEMENT I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE DASH WARNING LIGHTS INDICATE THAT THE BAGS ARE NOT WORKING AND THE SIDE AIR BAGS ALSO ARE NOT WORKING, THESE WARNINGS HAPPEN EVERY TIME I START THE CAR! I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE LOCAL DEALER (THE ONE THAT REPLACED BOTH BAGS) AND PAID AN ADDITIONAL FEE TO HAVE THE VEHICLE CHECKED. AT THAT TIME I ALSO MENTIONED MY COMPLAINT FROM PURCHASE THAT THE IGNITION KEY GETS VERY HOT AND THAT THE AUTO BATTERY MUST BE REPLACED EVERY TWO YEARS! THEIR RESPONSE WAS THAT THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG OR UNUSUAL! THE AUTO HAD 34849 MILES ON THE ODOMETER AT THE TIME (2/13/17) AND CONTIUES TO DATE!
VEHICLE IN MOTION IN ALL ACCOUNTS. TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY ON AND OFF SIGNALING FAULTY TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM. CENTRAL COMPUTER REPLACED. AGAIN TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY CAME ON AND OFF. 3 WHEEL SENSORS SUBSEQUENTLY REPLACED. AGAIN TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY CAME ON AND OFF. TOLD BY DEALER THERE IS SIGNAL OF FAILURE TO TRANSMIT TO REAR SENSORS IN HISTORY - HOWEVER SYSTEM FUNCTIONING NORMALLY AT THIS TIME AND THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO NOW. THEY RECOMMENDED NOT PLUGGING ANY PHONE CHARGERS OR ANYTHING ELSE INTO THE CAR POWER JACKS THAT COULD CAUSE INTERFERENCE. THIS SOUNDS LIKE OVERALL FAULTY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TO ME.
WHEN STARTING VEHICLE CAR TURNS ON WITH NO PROBLEM SOMETIMES AND WILL RUN WITH LITTLE TO NO PROBLEM. WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN VEHICLE BEGINS TO LOSE POWER AND ALL LIGHTS ON INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS UP CAR SHUTS OFF. THIS CAN HAPPEN RANDOMLY AT ANY GIVEN TIME, WEATHER CONDITION, SPEED, PARKING OR PULLING OUT OF PARKING SPACE ON THE HIGHWAY OR MULTI-LANE STREETS WITHIN CITY LIMITS; AND OR ONE-WAY STREETS, BACK ROADS OR COUNTRY ROADS WITH INCLINES AND HIGHER ELEVATIONS OR NOT. INCIDENTS HAVE BEEN HAPPENING SINCE MARCH 15, 2017, APRIL 2, APRIL 15, APRIL 18, APRIL 20, MAY 2, MAY 4, 2017. ALL MAINTENANCE WORK DONE ON VEHICLE WAS DONE BY HONDA DEALERSHIP WHERE PURCHASED. ALL INSPECTIONS INCLUDING MAY 2017 INSPECTION HAVE RECEIVED PASSING GRADES, DONE BY HONDA DEALERSHIP AS WELL. TOOK VEHICLE TO DEALERSHIP TWICE AND WAS INFORMED THEY COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM. DIAGNOSTIC TEST WAS NOT DONE BECAUSE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WOULD NEED TO BE ON AND SHUT OFF NEEDED TO OCCUR WHILE AT DEALERSHIPS SERVICE CENTERS. CAR WAS PURCHASED APRIL OF 2015 AS A PRE-OWNED / PRE-CERTIFIED VEHICLE. MANUFACTURER WARRANTY FOR POWER TRAIN WILL END NOVEMBER 2017. ALL OTHER WARRANTIES HAVE ENDED.
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
Categories with enough reports to have a page of their own
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