2007 Mercedes-Benz C280

driver seat belt. seat belt did not lock during crash with airbag deployment. problem has not been confirmed. police observed the belt not locked in either extended or retracted position after collision. burn marks on belt would indicate belt was in use

NHTSA ID

11739294

Incident

May 21, 2026

I have never been contacted about this recall either. This is the second complaint form I have filed. First one filed 12/28/2019.

NHTSA ID

11705231

Incident

Dec 15, 2025

My Mercedes has never been recalled for the Takata air bag recall and now I have a warning about the SRS, Supplemental Restraint System. What ever happened to vehicles having replacement air bags??

NHTSA ID

11705230

Incident

Dec 15, 2025

June 2, 2025 To Mercedes Customer Service: Safety Issue. This weekend I experienced the most frightening encounter that I ever had in a car. As I was driving on a 4-lane bypass highway at 55MPH my car suddenly and erratically turned to the right almost sending me into the cement bridge guards (I was driving over a river bridge). As I tried to correct the car, it then veered sharply left sending me into the passing lane where other traffic needed to avoid hitting me. Then after the car was stabilized “ESP inoperable” light came on. I had nowhere to pull off on this particular highway and had to continue to drive until I got to an exit. Took to my dealership. Apparently cause is “broken subframe” Not knowing what that meant, I looked it up, only to find a longstanding problem in Mercedes vehicles. I feel fortunate to have avoided a serious accident/injuries. But I have to say I am disappointed in the Mercedes response to this issue and the recall which only focuses on particular years and models impacted by the issue. Subframes, meant to last the lifetime of the car, have been a recurring issue with Mercedes. Apparently the class action law suit covered cars 2010 to 2022 and so even though what happened to me (sudden severe and erratic swerving) is identical to that described in the class action findings and recalls, and my car is still within the 20 year timeframe for free repairs up until 2027, I do not qualify simply because my car is 2007. (~$3500 bill coming my way) I see no logical explanation as to why all cars experiencing a subframe corrosion and breakage would not be covered by the same recall regardless of the year of the car. How is that logical? (Car is still in repair shop. no invoice available yet.)

NHTSA ID

11670712

Incident

Jun 28, 2025

Grinding nose after I did the breaks. And when I press the gas it acts like the e brake is on on

NHTSA ID

11647466

Incident

Mar 9, 2025

I am writing about this incident after finding out about the lawsuit filed against Mercedes concerning problems with the balance shaft, the soft metal they used in production, and the COMMON engine codes (P0016 & P0017). I am [XXX] and I was on the highway with my girlfriend going around 75mph and I smelled a burning smell and thought it might’ve been the truck/one of the cars in front of me. All of a sudden my power steering was gone and my car basically lost all power. Only the brakes worked. Thank god the other cars were far enough away from me and I didn’t put anyone else in danger. Due to the loss of control I was forced to pull into the breakdown lane on the LEFT side which was so incredibly dangerous since the highway was so busy. I eventually pulled to the right side of the highway when there was enough space and time to do so and opened my hood and saw that my tensioner blew and the serpentine belt came off. I was so angry because the dealer that sold me the car told me the codes were only emission related and did not affect the mechanics of the car. That’s a whole other issue. I am not so very mechanically inclined but after extensive research I’ve found that this code (which was covered up by Mercedes) was most likely the culprit and has been causing me issues throughout my experience with the vehicle. I am a broke college student. Yes, it was stupid to buy a Mercedes, but I was [XXX] and I’ve learned a lot about cars and the industry since then. At the end of the day, despite my stupidity and ignorance, Mercedes should be held responsible for this issue and everyone who has [had incidents similar to myself or have the codes that I have deserve to be reimbursed for all the repairs, time, and danger they have and will eventually put people in. Don't wait for someone to die on the highway before you consider issuing a recall. DO SOMETHING. I shouldn’t have to fear for my life going out in this car to get to work, school, and most importantly, my family. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF I

NHTSA ID

11589331

Incident

Aug 24, 2023

I first noticed an issue with the alignment. The vehicle would always pull to the left. After 3 different alignment procedures, it remind the same. I started noticing a clunking sound when I would brake. While driving I hit a moderate pothole and the car lurched side to side, causing me to lose control. It was fortunate that I was on a surface street, and that I was only traveling about 35 mph. I almost struck the vehicle next to me, but my quick reflex prevented it. I limped the car, going 15-20 mph with hazards on, to my mechanic. He called me the next day informing me that I had a complete rear subframe failure. I researched and found that Mercedes, had extended the warranty on all models of the same year but my model was not included. Numerous mercedes of the same year and model are having the same issue. This is an EXTREMELY and dangerous issue that Mercedes need to address. Others my not be so fortunate as I was to have been on a surface road under speed. I would not have been able to control the vehicle had I been traveling at highway speed.

NHTSA ID

11580065

Incident

Mar 16, 2024

Everytime I fill the gas tank I smell gas strongly I paid out of pocket to have the fuel pump done the gas cap the purge valve and I’m still getting a check engine light for a evap leak and still smelling gas from inside and outside the car I also have a rattle noise comeing from inside the gas tank u can take the gas cap off and heat it inside the gas tank from outside and inside the car it’s a constant knocking noise inside the gas tank I replaced everything and their is still a knock noise and fuel smell I have proof receipts from Merceds dealer of all work I did and I have videos of the noise I can’t afford a new gas tank I bought the car in Connecticut with a 2 year extended warranty the warranty place won’t cover a new gas tank I saw their were recalls for gas smells on other models same year as mine but not the c class a lot of other people I noticed on google have had this same knocking noise and fuel smell the car only has 70 thousand miles on it I can’t afford 5 grand for a new gas tank and labor espically after I already paid for all this stuff and already had this problem diagnosed but yet everytime I get my car back it’s never fixed but they tell me it’s fixed they have my car for months at a time and never give it back to me fixed I’m always paying for rental cars because of this they won’t supply me with a loaner please put a recall in for these fuel tanks 2007 c280 4 matic only has 70 thousand miles I bought it 4 months ago and no one will fix this properly for me when they have diagnosed this problem multiple times the rattle is the baffles in the fuel tank they keep working their way around it and keep telling me it’s other things just to get my money instead of properly diagnosing it I’m just sick of geting my car back saying it’s fixed when it’s not out of the 4 months I’ve had this car it has Ben in my possession for maybe one of them the other 3 months it’s Ben in and out the shop for the same problem please recall these tanks car has low miles

NHTSA ID

11558138

Incident

Aug 16, 2023

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).