2004 Mercedes-Benz CL500

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MERCEDES-BENZ CL500. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 15 MPH AND ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A LEFT TURN, THE VEHICLE HESITATED MOMENTARILY TO SHIFT FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEAR. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS MOST EVIDENT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS BEING DRIVEN AT SPEEDS UNDER 40 MPH. ADDITIONALLY, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SEVERAL GAUGES FAILED TO PROVIDE ACCURATE INFORMATION OR READINGS. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT TRUNK FAILED TO REMAIN UPRIGHT WHEN OPENED; THE ACTIVE BODY CONTROL (ABC) WORKSHOP WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED; THERE WAS AN UNKNOWN GREEN FLUID LEAKING UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE; AND THE POWER STEERING PUMP AND ACTIVE BODY CONTROL (ABC) PUMP WERE DEFECTIVE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A CERTIFIED MECHANIC WHO CONFIRMED THE LEAK OF THE ACTIVE BODY CONTROL (ABC) AND POWER STEERING FLUID. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT PRESSURE BUILT UP IN THE VALVE BODY WAS THE CAUSE FOR THE FAILURES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT CONTACTED MERCEDES BENZ OF WEST CALDWELL (1220 BLOOMFIELD AVE, WEST CALDWELL, NJ 07006, (973) 227-3600) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT SUBJECTED TO ANY RECALLS RELATED TO THE FAILURES EXPERIENCED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 127,600.

NHTSA ID

11337154

Incident

Jun 26, 2020

Mileage

127,600 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MERCEDES-BENZ CL500. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED, THE SRS INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE WAS TILTED AND LOW. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE SUSPENSION WAS FAULTY. THE TECHNICIAN ALSO DIAGNOSED THAT THE FRONT LINE PUMP AND STRUT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE PUMP AND THE STRUT WERE REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN. *AS *TR

NHTSA ID

11234248

Incident

Apr 19, 2019

I PURCHASED THIS CAR JUNE 2016. ENROUTE TO VACATION, IN EARLY AUGUST, THE DRIVER SIDE ELECTRICAL PANEL STOPPED OPERATING. MID-WAY TO VACATION, WHILE STOPPING FOR GAS THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WHEN COMPLETELY DARK. I WAS UNABLE TO GAUGE HOW MUCH GAS, SPEED, ETC., ALSO AT THAT TIME WHILE SITTING IN THE CAR, THE JUMPED AS IF SOMEONE HIT THE CAR. LATER I LEARNED THAT IT WAS THE SUSPENSION. THIS CONTINUED TO HAPPEN THROUGHOUT THE VACATION. UPON REACHING MY VACATION DESTINATION, THE NEXT DAY THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND I HAD TO CALL TO GET MY BATTERY JUMPED. TWO DAYS LATER THE BATTERY DIED AGAIN AND I HAD TO CALL FOR A JUMP. AFTER RETURNING FROM VACATION, A WEEK LATER, THE BATTERY DIED AGAIN AND I HAD TO CALL FOR A JUMP AGAIN. IN MY OPINION THIS CAR IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE. I REACHED OUT TO THE RECALL REPRESENTATIVES AND WAS TOLD THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL IS NOT UNDER RECALL.

NHTSA ID

10910748

Incident

Jun 20, 2016

Mileage

93,000 mi

TAKATA RECALL I BOUGHT MY 04 CL500 BENZ IN APRIL OF 2015, AFTER A FEW MONTH I NOTICED THE CLUSTER FLICKERING THEN SOON AFTER THE BACK LIGHT WENT OUT BUT GAGES STILL WORKING THEN TODAY WHILE DRIVING IN THE CITY A POOF OF SMOKE HIT ME IN THE FACE I FIGURED SOMETHING WAS ON FIRE SO I PULLED OVER OPENED ALL MY DOORS AND HOOD BUT NO FLAMES JUST SMOKE WHEN SMOKE STOPPED I LOOKED TOWARD WHERE THE SMOKE WAS COMING FROM WITCH WAS THE CLUSTER NOW IM STUCK WITH A HORRBLE SMELL AND NO GAGES

NHTSA ID

10862317

Incident

Apr 30, 2016

Mileage

128,762 mi

RECALL #1-ABC PUMP LEAK. AT 67,000 MILES IN MARCH 2013, THE ABC PUMP BROKE AND LEAKED FLUID ALL OVER THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, AND CAUSED THE SUSPENSION TO COLLAPSE. HAD THE NECESSARY REPAIRS MADE AT THE COST OF $3500 WITHOUT KNOWLEDGE OF A SAFETY RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE. RECALL #2-INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILURE-AT 87,000 MILES IN MARCH 2016, THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WENT BLACK WHILE TRAVELING AT 60 MPH ON I-10. DID SOME RESEARCH AND DISCOVERED THAT THIS ISSUE IS ALSO A SAFETY RECALL. I HAVE EXPERIENCED 2 OF THE 4 SAFETY RECALLS WITH THIS VEHICLE, BUT IT WAS NOT INCLUDED IN EITHER RECALL. VEHICLES EXPERIENCING 1 OF THE 4 ISSUES HAVE BEEN COVERED BY RECALLS, BUT A VEHICLE THAT HAS EXPERIENCED 2 OF 4 ISSUES SO FAR IS NOT COVERED. WHERE IS THE COMMON SENSE IN THIS? ON AVERAGE, THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN DRIVEN ONLY 7500 MILES PER YEAR.

NHTSA ID

10852491

Incident

Mar 27, 2016

Mileage

67,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MERCEDES BENZ CL500. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE LOWERED INDEPENDENTLY AND THE INSTRUMENT PANEL CLUSTER FAILED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 07V263000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING , SUSPENSION) AND 06V028000 (INTERIOR LIGHTING). THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM WAS REPLACED BUT THE FAILURE REOCCURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED FOR THE MOST RECENT FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 65,000.

NHTSA ID

10852256

Incident

Apr 16, 2013

Mileage

65,000 mi

I WAS DRIVING TO THE STORE GOING ABOUT 45MPH AND ALL THE SUDDEN MY INSTRUMENT CLUSTER COMPLETELY WENT OUT AND THIS IS MY DAILY DRIVER SO NOW IM DRIVING WITH NO FUEL LEVEL SPEED OR HOW HOT MY ENGINE IS GETTING I CALLED MERCEDES AND THEY SAID MY VIN WAS NOT IN THE RECALL BUT IT SHOULD NOT MATTER!! IT HAS THE SAME PROBLEM AS THE OTHER ONES. BUT THEY REFUSE TO FIX A SAFE MAULFUNCTION

NHTSA ID

10783549

Incident

Oct 17, 2015

Mileage

120,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2004 MERCEDES BENZ CL500. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE FRONT END CAUGHT FIRE. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS ABLE TO EXTINGUISH THE FIRE. THERE WAS A FIRE REPORT AND IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE FIRE STARTED FROM THE UNDER THE HOOD OF THE VEHICLE. NO INJURIES WERE REPORTED. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 07V263000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING, SUSPENSION). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 124,000. UPDATED 01/06/16*LJ *CN

NHTSA ID

10762189

Incident

Mar 21, 2015

Mileage

124,000 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.