Recalls, owner-reported complaints, investigations and safety data
Data refreshed
Our database contains 15 NHTSA owner-reported complaints for the 2001 Mercedes-Benz CLK320, most frequently naming the airbags, driver assistance and electrical categories. 30 manufacturer communications are on file.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
When owners filed reports about this model year
| Month | Complaints filed | Cumulative |
|---|---|---|
| Apr 2001 | 1 | 1 |
| Nov 2002 | 1 | 2 |
| Jan 2006 | 1 | 3 |
| Feb 2007 | 2 | 5 |
| Oct 2007 | 1 | 6 |
| May 2009 | 1 | 7 |
| Oct 2011 | 1 | 8 |
| Sep 2012 | 1 | 9 |
| Aug 2013 | 1 | 10 |
| Jul 2014 | 1 | 11 |
| Apr 2015 | 1 | 12 |
| Sep 2015 | 1 | 13 |
| Sep 2016 | 1 | 14 |
| Mar 2020 | 1 | 15 |
Complaints grouped by the component NHTSA recorded
Percentages are of component mentions. A single complaint can name more than one component, so these do not sum to the total complaint count.
No recalls in our database for this model year
That does not guarantee a specific vehicle is unaffected — recalls are issued against VINs, and new campaigns are announced regularly. Check a VIN on NHTSA.gov.
Reports submitted to NHTSA, shown in the owner's own words
MVC WITH FRONTAL IMPACT FIRST THROUGH AN T INTERSECTION THEN A CULVERT AND STRIKING A TREE AT A SPEED >45 MPH. AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY AND SEATBELT DID NOT LOCK ON DRIVERS SIDE WHILE ENGAGED. DRIVER INCURRED A 20% COMPRESSION FRACTURE ON L1 VERTABRAE.
AIR BAG DRIVER TYPE UNKNOWN-- DRIVER STERNUM FRACTURED I WAS DRIVING A 2001 MERCEDES CLK320 DURING RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC 1/2 CAR LENGTH BEHIND NEXT CAR. THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME CHANGED LANES, TWO 3 SERIES BMWS WERE STOPPED FOR CITY BUS. I SLAMMED ON BRAKES, THEN REALIZED I WOULD HIT THE CAR IN FRONT, DID NOT SWRIVE LINED MY BODY UP BOTH ARMS ON WHEEL SKIDDED AND HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. THE AIRBAG HIT ME IN THE CHEST VERY HARD AT ABOUT 1300, THERE WAS A TEAR WITH WHITE PUFF AND LITTLE METAL BEAD THINGS ON AIRBAG. I CHECK TO SEE IF MY FILINGS HAD BEEN BROKEN. I HAD NO IDEA WHAT THE LITTLE METAL CIRCLE WAS. I COULD MOVE MY HANDS, FEET WITHOUT NUMBNESS OR TINGLING NECK DIDN'T HURT, CHEST HAD SHARP PINPOINT PAIN, THERE WAS SMOKE, ENGINE WAS DAMAGED I WAS WORRIED ABOUT FIRE. REACHED FOR SEATBELT A GUY WANTED ME TO STAY. THEN FIREFIGHTER SAID TO LEAVE TO SPRAY. EMS ON SCENE. TRANSPORTED TO NFRMC CT CHEST STERNAL FRACTURE NOT DISPLACED. POLICE REPORT IS WRONG. AIRBAG DEPLOYED, EMS TRANSPORTATION. RECORDS AVAILABLE CLK TOTALED, ENGINE DAMAGE SPEED EST 25 M/HR FLOW OF TRAFFIC LIMIT 45.
NUMEROUS BLOW OUT AND SHREDDING OF FIRESTONE LOW PROFILE TIRES. THE TIRES LOSE AIR PRESSURE VERY QUICKLY WITHIN WEEKS OF FILLING & THIS OFTEN LEADS TO THE TIRE HEATING UP AND CATASTROPHIC SIDE WALL FAILURE. MOST OF THE TIME THE SHREDDING OCCURS ON THE INSIDE OF THE RIM AND IS NOT VISIBLE FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE DEALER TRIED TO BLAME ME FOR NOT HAVING AN ALIGNMENT DONE WHICH IN FACT (PROOF OF RECEIPTS) AN ALIGNMENT WAS CONDUCTED ONE MONTH PRIOR TO A BLOW OUT LAST YEAR 2014. THE DEALERSHIP AND THE FIRESTONE CORPORATION FAILED TO PROVIDE AS REQUIRED BY LAW THE DOT NOTIFICATIONS OF EACH OF THE BLOW OUT INFO. SEVERE FINANCIAL STRESS WAS INCURRED FOR EVERY TIME EACH OF THE INCIDENTS WERE REALIZED. ONE OF THE TIRES INVOLVED: DOT 9UPL OOA 1014 SP1963-02.
WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE STREET BOTH THE RIGHT AND LEFT LED INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS THAT INDICATE WHAT GEAR YOU ARE IN AND THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE BOTH FAILED AND ARE UNABLE TO READ. I CONSIDER THIS A SAFETY ISSUE ONLY BECAUSE I CANNOT TELL WHICH GEAR I AM IN AND OFTEN TIMES I MUST GUESS AT WHAT GEAR IT IS IN. THIS GUESSING TAKES MY EYES AND CONCENTRATION OFF THE ROAD AND COULD POTENTIALLY CAUSE AN ACCIDENT I KNOW THAT EVERY CLK320 HAS THIS SAME ISSUE AND MERCEDES BENZ HAS NOT ISSUED A RECALL FOR THIS FIX. IT SEEMS THEY SHOULD AS IT COULD LEAD TO MANY ACCIDENTS. *TR
THE GPS ADAPTER DOES NOT FIT TIGHTLY IN THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER SOCKET. I USE A PAPER PIECE TO MAKE IT TIGHT, HOWEVER IT GETS LOOSE AND GETS GPS DISCONNECTED WHILE DRIVING. MANY TIMES WHEN I REALIZE THIS EITHER I HAVE GONE TOO FAR OR I HAVE TO MAKE SUDDEN DECISION, WHICH MAKES IT DANGEROUS. THE PROBLEM IS NOT WITH MY GPS ADOPTER, BECAUSE IT FITS WELL IN ANY OTHER CAR. THE PROBLEM IS WITH THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER SOCKET OF MB. THIS HAS BEEN LIKE THIS SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW. THIS PERHAPS IS MANUFACTURING DEFECT AND MUST BE CORRECTED IMMEDIATELY. THANK YOU. *TR
I WAS BACKING OUT OF A PARKING SPACE WHEN MY PASSENGER SIDE CONTROL ARM BROKE. THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL SPLAYED OUT AND BENT THE FENDER. I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A GARAGE THAT WAS VERY NEARBY. THE MECHANIC NOTED THAT THE CONTROL ARM WAS HOLLOW AND SEEMED TO BE RUSTING. HE WAS ABLE TO DETECT THAT THE DRIVER SIDE CONTROL ARM HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM IN THE MAKING AND THAT THE STABILIZER BAR HAD STRESS CRACK. ALL WERE REPLACED OVER THE NEXT FEW WEEKS WHILE I WAS ON VACATION. THE TOTAL COST WAS SLIGHTLY UNDER $2900. IT WAS A BIT SCARY AND I WAS CERTAINLY GLAD THAT I WAS NOT DRIVING FAST WHEN THIS CATACLYSMIC FAILURE OCCURRED. I THOUGHT THAT MERCEDES SHOULD HEAR ABOUT THE PROBLEM AND WHEN I RETURNED FROM VACATION, CALLED MY DEALER WHO HAD DONE ALL OF THE MECHANICAL SERVICE AND REPAIRS ON THE CAR SINCE IT WAS BOUGHT. THEY WERE HAVING PHONE AND E-MAIL COMMUNICATION PROBLEMS AND DID NOT CALL BACK FOR QUITE A WHILE. THEY SUGGESTED THAT I LET MBUSA KNOW ABOUT MY CONCERN. I IMMEDIATELY E-MAILED MBUSA. THEY TOOK UNTIL RECENTLY TO REPLY. THEY TELL ME THAT THERE IS NO CURRENT SERVICE CAMPAIGN AND THAT THE GOVERNMENT HAS NOT INITIATED A RECALL ON THE PROBLEM. I HAVE PICTURES DOCUMENTING THE PROBLEM AND SOME OF THE PARTS IF ANYONE WANTS TO INSPECT THEM. I AM FINE AND DO NOT NEED ANY REIMBURSEMENT. BUT, I WORRY THAT SOME POOR FELLOW IS GOING TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM AT 55 MPH AND NOT LIVE TO WRITE TO YOU ABOUT THIS DANGEROUS PROBLEM. HOPEFULLY MY PROBLEM IS EITHER A ONE TIME EVENT OR IF IT IS ENDEMIC OR A DESIGN FLAW, SOMEBODY WILL GET OUT AHEAD OF THIS PROBLEM BEFORE SOMEONE SUFFERS. THANKS FOR HELPING TO MAKE THIS A SAFER WORLD. *TR
WHILE STOPPING AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT AT THE END OF EXIT 43 OFF RAMP I95 IN LYNNFIELD MA. CAR ENGINE SHUT OFF AND WOULD NOT RESTART. BELIEVE IT TO BE A FAULT CPS CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR WHICH IS A KNOWN QUALITY ISSUE. *TR
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
A bulletin sent by a manufacturer to its dealers. Not a recall, and repairs are not necessarily free.
POWER TRAIN
Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.
ENGINE
Complaint Vehicle with atypical reduced heat output. Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.
STRUCTURE:BODY; VISIBILITY/WIPER
Complaint Washer fluid system leaks Cause Various possible causes: 1. Washer fluid reservoir itself. 2. Seal on washer fluid pump/washer fluid reservoir. 3. Washer fluid pump. 3.1. Distributor housing leaks. 3.2. Pump fitting leaks. 3.3. Washer fluid hose cannot be snapped into place on pump fitting. 3.4. Washer fluid hose will not stay on pump fitting, although connector OK. 4. Washer fluid line. 4.1 Connector will not stay on pump fitting because it is broken. 4.2 Sealing ring in connector missing. 4.3 Sealing ring in connector fitted, but deformed and therefore leaks. 4.4 Damage to washer line by animal. 5. Seal on heating washer fluid reservoir/washer fluid reservoir. Remedy Replace defective component parts only. Do not replace any adjacent component parts that are intact. Note: Repair kits for washer line hoses do exist to allow patches for line damage.
Manufacturers file copies of the bulletins they send to dealers with NHTSA. These often describe diagnostic or repair procedures for a known condition. They are not recalls: repairs described in a bulletin are usually only free if the vehicle is still under warranty or the manufacturer has extended coverage.
Complaint and recall counts across every year of this model
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers. Older model years have had longer for reports to accumulate.