2004 Mercedes-Benz CLK320

About 3 years ago, the passenger side of my door started randomly swinging open while I was driving. It was extremely dangerous and almost caused a serious accident the first time it happened. I spent over $1000 to get it fixed. Now, I am 7 months pregnant and it is happening again to the drivers side door. I cannot even drive the car now, because it doesn’t latch at all when I shut the door. I have to figure out a way to keep it shut so I can take it to get fixed again. It was completely unwarranted both times, almost causing serious accidents. I have seen blog posts online of this same incident happening with the same car. This needs to be recalled immediately, and drivers shouldn’t have to pay top dollar (or their life) to fix an issue Mercedes bad door locking mechanism created.

NHTSA ID

11613587

Incident

Sep 6, 2024

I purchased 4 new tires, my car calls for a staggered fitment (225/45R17 DOT# 1RB7RR9872922 and 1RB7RR9811521 up front and 245/40R17 DOT# 1RB8NR981112 and 1RB8NR9811022 in the rear). Upon returning home, I noticed the tires were installed backwards with the wider ones up front. This will cause the tires to rub the shock absorbers and will lead to tire blowouts and likely much more damage to my vehicle or injury to myself and or others. I called Firestone when realizing this and they said to bring it back and they would fix it. Had I trusted the professionals to do their job correctly and not double checked their work I would have blown out the two front tires within a few thousand miles; fortunately for me, I do not trust anyone to work on my vehicles but myself. Coincidentally, Firestone has an advertisement in their lobby that says "Fixed right or its free guarantee. Ask for details." When I asked the store manager about the sign, I was literally laughed at and told I am not getting free tires. They need to be held accountable for their advertisements and either refund me the purchase amount or they need to remove / edit their signs likely at all 22,000+ locations nationwide.

NHTSA ID

11604697

Incident

May 24, 2024

The vehicle during a severe accident, in which the other drivers air bags were deployed, our vehicles airbags did not in fact deploy at any rate. Which put all passengers in severe danger causing injuries that could have been avoided if they worked properly. Also the drivers seat belt (which was worn at the time of the accident) due to the immense collision at one point clicks unhinged and would no longer actively snap back causing multiple injuries as well. This incident will call for suit.

NHTSA ID

11509943

Incident

Feb 10, 2023

THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED ON THEIR OWN WITHOUT A COLLISION. I WAS DRIVING 30 MPH ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET WITH ROADS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION WHEN ALL THE SUDDEN THE STEERING WHEEL AND PASSENGER DASH AIRBAGS WENT OFF OUT OF N O WHERE.

NHTSA ID

11302271

Incident

Jan 25, 2020

Mileage

217,000 mi

ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON , WINDSHIELD WIPERS STOPPED WORKING, DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW STOPPED WORKING, MULTIPLE ERROR LIGHTS, ON MULTIPLE DATES.

NHTSA ID

10944180

Incident

Jan 9, 2017

ON O AROUND SEPTEMBER 14, 2016 I FUELED THIS AUTO I RECENTLY PURCHASED AS A SECOND CAR. MY GARAGE BEGAN TO WREAK HEAVILY OF GASOLINE. MY HOME IS TOTALLY ELECTRIC AND I HAVE NO GAS POWERED ITEMS IN THERE. MY OTHER VEHICLE NEVER SMELLS AND I HAVE HAD IT 2 YEARS. I REMOVED THE MB AND THE SMELL NO LONGER EXISTED, ELIMINATING ANY OTHER SOURCE. I RESEARCHED THIS COMPLAINT ON THE INTERNET AND WAS SHOCKED AT THE NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS IGNORED AND THE OBVIOUS IMPENDING DANGERS. THIS CAR HAD ONLY 68000 MILES AND SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN SERVICED FREQUENTLY PER CAR FAX. PER INTERNET COMPLAINTS THIS TRAVESTY WAS NEVER RECOGNIZED B MBUSA AND OWNERS WERE LEFT HOLDING THE LEMON AND DEALERS GOT AWAY AS WELL. I AM CONCERNED BECAUSE I DO NOT KNOW WHAT ELSE IS CONNECTED TO THIS FUEL DILEMMA! I KNOW THE DANGERS AND I DO NOT WANT IT TO ERUPT IN FIRE AND DESTROY ME, MY HOUSE NOR MY NEW PORSCHE! THIS SEEMS COSTLY AND AN ACCIDENT AWAITING TO HAPPEN. I CANNOT UNDERSTAND WHY OTHERS WITH DOCUMENTED PROBLEMS ON THE INTERNET HAVE NOT REGISTERED A COMPLAINT WITH YOU. I AM APPALLED AND CHAGRINED AT MBUSA FOR ALLOWING THIS PROBLEM TO EXIST. I WILL BE CONTACTING EVERY ONE I AM ABLE TO REGARDING THE SERIOUS AND EMINENT DANGER OF THIS FUEL LINE MALADY.

NHTSA ID

10909539

Incident

Sep 14, 2016

Mileage

69,000 mi

THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HAS DEVELOPED A CONDITION THAT CAUSES THE TRANSMISSION TO SHIFT VERY ROUGHLY AT LOW SPEEDS. THIS SHIFTING CAUSES THE VEHICLE TO JERK AND STUTTER WHEN DOWN SHIFTING OR SHIFTING FROM 1ST OR 2ND GEAR. I HAVE HAD A TRANSMISSION SERVICE, REPLACEMENT TRANSMISSION, REPLACEMENT RADIATOR ALL INSTALLED TO NO AVAIL. THE CONDITION IS AT BEST A NUISANCE, AND AT ITS WORST A SAFETY CONCERN. THIS ROUGH SHIFTING OCCURS IN THE LOWER GEARS, AND AT LOWER SPEEDS.

NHTSA ID

10861476

Incident

Jul 9, 2013

Mileage

97,000 mi

WE WOULD LIKE TO SUBMIT A COMPLAINT. WE OWN A 2004 CLK320 WHICH HAS PRESENTED WITH CONTINUING PROBLEMS. WHEN WE PURCHASED THE VEHICLE, THE REAR AXLE ALIGNMENT WAS DEFECTIVE IN WHICH REQUIRED REALIGNMENT AND REAR TIRE REPLACEMENT. AT 21,937 MILES THE CAR PRESENTED WITH TRANSMISSION SHIFTING PROBLEMS. THE CAR WOULD JERK/STALL WHILE BEING DRIVEN. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS AS IT WAS DIFFICULT TO MERGE WITH TRAFFIC, BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY, WE FELT WE WERE GOING TO GET REAR-ENDED AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. THE MERCEDES-BENZ DEALER SERVICE DEPARTMENT DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM WHICH REQUIRED THE TRANSMISSION TO BE FLUSHED. THEN AGAIN AT 28,714 MILES THE VEHICLE PRESENTED WITH RECURRING TRANSMISSION SHIFTING PROBLEMS, JERKING & STALLING.. WE SCHEDULED A MERCEDES-BENZ DEPARTMENT SERVICE AND THE DIAGNOSES WAS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION REPLACE AT OVER $9,000. WE REQUESTED THAT MERCEDES-BENZ OF AMERICA REPLACE OR ASSIST US WITH THE REPAIR OF THE VEHICLE AT NO COST TO US THE CUSTOMER SINCE THE VEHICLE IS A "LEMON". THE MERCEDES BENZ REPRESENTATIVE SAID THAT HE WOULD CONTACT THE DEALER AND GET BACK TO US WITHIN 24 HOURS. WE NEVER HEARD BACK FROM HIM EVEN AFTER LEAVING NUMEROUS VOICE MAIL MESSAGES. WE HAVE SEARCHED ONLINE AND FOUND NUMEROUS SIMILAR TRANSMISSION COMPLAINTS. THIS PROBLEM IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND MERCEDES-BENZ SHOULD RECALL THIS VEHICLE. *TR

NHTSA ID

10621264

Incident

Jul 25, 2014

Mileage

28,714 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.