2002 Mercedes-Benz CLK320

WE HAD A BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM LINE THAT CONNECTS TO THE ALUMINUM INTAKE WITH A PLASTIC FITTING ON A 2002 MERCEDES CLK320 (173K MILES) THAT GOT BRITTLE AND BROKE. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS INJURED OR KILLED. I'M AN EX-MECHANIC AND HAVE NEVER SEEN PLASTIC FITTING USED FOR THE VACUUM LINE TO THE BRAKE BOOSTER ON THE ENGINE. OVER TIME THIS WILL GET BRITTLE AND BREAK. THIS VACUUM LINE DOES 2 THINGS, #1 IT KEEPS THE CAR RUNNING WITH NORMAL POWER, #2 ALLOWS YOU TO HAVE BRAKES THAT OPERATE NORMALLY. I HAVE DONE A QUICK SEARCH AND IT'S NOT JUST MERCEDES, OTHER MANUFACTURERS DO THIS IN SOME AND/ OR ALL MODELS OF THEIR CARS. THIS WAS A WAKE UP CALL FOR ME ESPECIALLY BEING A MECHANIC. IF I SAW THIS AS A MECHANIC IT WOULD HAVE BEEN REPORTED. THIS IS A MAJOR CATASTROPHE WAITING TO HAPPEN. PEOPLE ARE KEEPING CARS LONGER AND IF THIS PLASTIC GETS BRITTLE AND BREAKS WHILE OUT ON THE HIGHWAY THE PERSON COULD LOSE ENGINE POWER AND/ OR BRAKING POWER. THIS NEEDS TO BE BROUGHT TO LIGHT AND I WANT TO DO THIS NOT JUST FOR ME BUT THE OTHER MILLIONS OF PEOPLE THAT COULD HAVE THIS HAPPEN TO THEM.

NHTSA ID

11040268

Incident

Oct 24, 2017

Mileage

173,000 mi

THERE IS TOO MUCH RUST ON THE VEHICLE! CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN ANY ACCIDENTS & HAS BEEN WASHED & WAXED REGULARLY. SUPPOSEDLY THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE WITH THESE CARS WHICH IS DISAPPOINTING. THIS POSES A SAFETY ISSUE AS IF THE VEHICLE IS INVOLVED IN A COLLISION, THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY IS HIGHLY DIMINISHED DUE TO THE CORROSION. WHAT IS EVEN MORE SCARY IS THAT THE CORROSION STARTS FROM THE INSIDE OUT SO YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SEE THE DAMAGE UNTIL IT IS TOO LATE. MB USA: PLEASE ASSIST/HELP & BACK YOUR PRODUCTS UP!

NHTSA ID

10823951

Incident

Nov 30, 2015

Mileage

255,000 mi

WHILE ON MY WAY TO WORK I STOP TO GET GAS. I GET IN MY CAR TO LEAVE AND KEY WILL NOT TURN LEFT OR RIGHT. ALSO STEERING WHEEL WAS LOCKED. I WAS STRANDED AND HAD CAR TOWED THE MB DEALERSHIP. THEY SAID FIRST I HAVE TO BUY NEW KEY BEFORE THEY DO ANYTHING WHICH COST ME $380. GOT NEW KEY AND THAT WASN'T THE PROBLEM. THEN THEY SAID MY EIS NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THEY REPLACED THE EIS, THEN I GET A CALL SAYING CAR STILL WILL NOT START. NOW THEY SAY I NEED A ESL(ELECTRONIC STEERING LOCK) NOW MY TOTAL JUMPED UP TO 2,200. I AM SO DISAPPOINTED THAT ALL THESE PROBLEMS CAN GO OUT AT THE EXACT SAME TIME WITH NO WARNING AT ALL. THERE HAS TO BE SOMETHING DONE ABOUT THIS COMMON PROBLEM IN MERCEDES. *TR

NHTSA ID

10695181

Incident

Mar 5, 2015

Mileage

98,000 mi

CLUSTER RECALL FOR MB CLK 430 2002 W208 COMMENTS: DEAR NHTSA REP., I OWN A 2002 MERCEDES BENZ CLK 320 THE VIN# IS:________. MY CONCERN IS OVER ITS FAULTY DISPLAY READOUTS THAT I HEAR MANY OTHER OWNERS ARE EXPERIENCING. THE SAFETY CONCERN IS THAT THE LEFT HALF OF THE DISPLAY BLANK AND IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO READ. IT'S HAZARDOUS AS I HAVE TO SQUINT TO READ THE DISPLAY WHICH TAKES MY EYES OFF THE ROAD LONGER THAT THEY SHOULD BE. AS PART OF THIS CLUSTER, THE TEMPERATURE PIXELS AND THE GEAR SELECTION PIXELS, WHICH LEADS ME AT TIMES TO INCORRECTLY DOWN SHIFT NOT KNOWING IF I AM IN 1ST, 2ND, 3RD OR 4TH GEAR, ARE HARDLY FUNCTIONAL WHICH HAS BEEN MAINLY UNREADABLE FOR SOME TIME NOW. I WENT TO THE MB DEALER AND REQUESTED TO FIX THIS ISSUE AND FOUND OUT THAT THE ONLY WAY IS TO CHANGE THE PART, BUT THIS PART IS CLOSE TO U$1,200 INCLUDING LABOR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF. AS I STATED BEFORE I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE COMPLAINING ABOUT IT, SO I THINK YOU SHOULD CONSIDER A RECALL ON THIS. THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION. FROM NHTSA WEB SITE. *TR

NHTSA ID

10266587

Incident

Apr 10, 2009

Mileage

84,000 mi

I WAS DRIVING UP THE MOUNTAIN HOME ,THE GAS PEDAL GAVE OUT. I SET THE CRUISE CONTROL ON AND DROVE AN HOUR HOME. WHEN I GOT HOME I LOOKED UNDER THE HOOD AND CAME TO SEE THAT THE THROTTLE CABLE HAD CAME DETACHED. THE CAR ONLY HAS 59,000 MILES ON IT. THIS IS THE FIRST TIME IT HAS HAPPENED TO ME. I CALLED MERCEDES-BENZ CUSTOMER CARE NUMBER TO SEE IF THERE IS A SAFETY RECALL ON THIS ,THEY SAID"NO" BUT THEY COULD ARRANGE A TOW BACK TO LAS VEGAS AT MY EXPENSE AND THEY CAN CHECK IT OUT TO SEE IF THEY WOULD BE ABLE TO DO ANYTHING FOR ME. I WOULD THINK THEY WOULD TOW AND FIX IT WITHOUT ANY EXPENSE TO ME FOR THIS SOUNDS LIKE A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE, I DID COME VERY CLOSE TO AN ACCIDENT THE CAR BEHIND ME ALMOST REAR ENDED ME AND I COULD NOT GET OVER TO THE RIGHT DUE TO OTHER VEHICLES TO THE RIGHT OF ME. I HOPE SOMEONE COULD BRING THIS TO THE ATTENTION TO THE RIGHT PEOPLE. *TR

NHTSA ID

10231280

Incident

Jun 16, 2008

Mileage

59,000 mi

2002 MERCEDES BENZ 430 CLK DASH BOARD INFORMATION LIGHTS (LED PIXELS) ARE DIMMING AND GOING DARK, THEREBY ELIMINATING THE ABILITY TO SEE DRIVING DATA (E.G. SPEED, TEMPERATURE, ETC.). DEALER STATES THIS PROBLEM IS QUITE COMMON (ANECDOTAL INFORMATION FROM THE INTERNET CONFIRMS THIS), AND REPAIR WILL COST APPROXIMATELY $1,500. *TR

NHTSA ID

10229161

Incident

May 27, 2008

Mileage

61,000 mi

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER MALFUNCTIONS. *TR

NHTSA ID

10216337

Incident

Jun 1, 2007

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES BENZ CLK320. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DIGITAL INSTRUMENT PANEL WAS DIMMING ON THE DRIVER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. AS TIME PROGRESSES, THE PANEL BECOMES MORE DIM. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 60,000 AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 55,000.

NHTSA ID

10203031

Incident

May 15, 2007

Mileage

55,000 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304