2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK350

I've just bought the car and it has only 70k, the engine doesn't want to go, it stalls but there is no check engine light on, I'll be driving and the car will just die, or start to diminish, and gas consumption , now all my lights fail, high beams, low beams, turn signals, Brake lights one after another, so I go to auto zone to purchase lights and one of the associates comes to help me, he stares that all the we ires are exposed,

NHTSA ID

11430148

Incident

Aug 1, 2021

ON 10/26/20 I WAS REAR END, I OWN A 2006 CLK 350 MERCEDES. I WAS SITTING STILL IN MY , A CAR HIT BE IN THE REAR CAUSING MY HEAD RESTRAINT TO DEPLOY. FROM THAT DUAL IMPACT, I SUSTAIN TRAUMATIC BRAIN INJURY ,LUMBAR AND CERVICAL INJURY AND DIPLOPIA ( DOUBLE VISION) RINGING IN EAR (TINNITUS) EQUILIBRIUM,*DT

NHTSA ID

11404440

Incident

Oct 26, 2020

Mileage

128,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MERCEDES-BENZ CLK350. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V918000 (VISIBILITY) HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE LOCAL DEALER MERCEDES-BENZ OF MODESTO LOCATED AT 3900 MCHENRY AVE, MODESTO, CA 95356 WAS NOTIFIED AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE PART WAS NOT YET AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER HAD EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT. ## VIN PASSED ## MERCEDES-BENZ 2006 CLK350 ##

NHTSA ID

11349292

Incident

Jul 1, 2020

THE CAR-SEAT OCCUPANCY MAT SENSOR WHICH IS BUILT INTO THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT BOTTOM IS DEFECTIVE. THE MERCEDES DEALER TOLD ME THAT THE REPLACEMENT PART IS NOT AVAILABLE AND THE ONLY WAY TO FIX THE PROBLEM IS TO COMPLETELY REPLACE THE SEAT AT GREAT EXPENSE. I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT SINCE THE SRS SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT IS ON THE ENTIRE AIRBAG SYSTEM IS DISABLED. IN THE EVENT OF A COLLISION THE AIRBAGS WILL NOT DEPLOY. I ALSO HAD TO REPLACE THE CLOCKSPRING IN THE STEERING WHEEL WHICH WAS ALSO CAUSING THE SRS LIGHT TO COME ON. THE PARTS AND LABOR BILL WAS OVER $600.

NHTSA ID

11318574

Incident

Jan 1, 2020

THE DEALER SOLD THE CAR WITHOUT DISCLOSING THE MULTIPLE SAFETY ISSUES PERTAINING TO THE CAR; SUCH AS, THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM, CONTROL ARMS, BALL JOINTS, ENGINE INSTABILITY, EMISSIONS DECEPTION, AND ODOMETER ACCURACY, AND FLOOD DAMAGE. DURING THE GENERATION OF THE PURCHASE, THE DEALER INSINUATED THE CAR WAS NEVER INVOLVED IN ANY ACCIDENTS BUT THE VEHICLE'S HISTORY REPORTED 3 THAT I DISCOVERED 'AFTER' I PURCHASED THE CAR. REGARDING PROOF OF ENGINE INSTABILITY, I COULD NOT UPLOAD THE VIDEO ON THIS FORM.

NHTSA ID

11221966

Incident

Feb 26, 2019

I FIRST THOUGHT SOMEONE HAD BEEN STEALING MY GAS UNTIL MY CAR STARTED TO SMELL LIKE GAS. IF I GIVE SOMEONE A RIDE IN MY CAR, THEY MAKE COMMENTS ABOUT THE SMELL AS SOON AS I START TO DRIVE. MY COWORKERS HAVE NOTICED THE ODOR IN WHEN THEY PASS BY MY CAR IN THE PARKING LOT AND THE SPOTS THAT IT LEAVES ON THE GROUND. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE MECHANIC AND HE SAID MY FUEL PUMP IS LEAKING ON TO THE TOP OF MY FUEL TANK AT AN EXCESSIVE RATE AND IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE. MY CAR ONLY HAS 84,000 MILES SO I DID SOME RESEARCH ON RECALLS. MERCEDES HAS EXTENDED WARRANTIES ON SEVERAL MODELS FROM 2006-2009 BUT MINE IS NOT ON THE LIST. MY CAR HAS THE SAME PROBLEMS AS THE OTHER VEHICLES EFFECTED. WHAT CAN I DO NEXT?

NHTSA ID

11056379

Incident

Dec 25, 2017

Mileage

84,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MERCEDES-BENZ CLK350. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS EQUIPPED WITH A FAULTY BALANCE SHAFT, WHICH ULTIMATELY CAUSED PREMATURE WEAR. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS SERVICED FOR REGULARLY SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE, THE CHECK ENGINE INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MERCEDES-BENZ OF ORANGE PARK (7018 BLANDING BLVD, JACKSONVILLE, FL) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BALANCE SHAFT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000. *TR

NHTSA ID

11051743

Incident

Nov 3, 2017

Mileage

30,000 mi

MERCEDES BENZ VEHICLES MANUFACTURED BETWEEN 2004 & 2007 & EQUIPPED WITH MERCEDES' M272 HAVE A FAULTY BALANCE SHAFT WHICH WAS NOT PROPERLY ANEALED, CAUSING PREMATURE WEAR. THE SUBJECT ENGINES WERE MANUFACTURED WITH DEFECTIVE GEARS IN THEIR BALANCE SHAFTS. THESE DEFECTIVE GEARS WEAR OUT PREMATURELY, EXCESSIVELY, AND CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO OTHER EXPENSIVE ENGINE COMPONENTS WITHOUT WARNING. REPAIR REQUIRES REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE AND WAS QUOTED AT $7000-$8000 BY THE MERCEDES BENZ DEALER. MOST OTHER IMPORT SHOPS DO NOT WANT TO EVEN ATTEMPT THE REPAIR DUE TO THE COMPLEXITY AND SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED. A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT WAS SETTLED ON THIS ISSUE SEVERAL YEARS AGO (WE WERE NEVER EVEN NOTIFIED) BUT ONLY THOSE WHO HAD THE ISSUE AT THE TIME COULD TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE SETTLEMENT'S DISCOUNTED REPAIR COSTS (IT WAS A TERRIBLE SETTLEMENT!). WE DID NOT HAVE THE ISSUE UNTIL A FEW MONTHS AGO AT AROUND 77000 MILES. THIS PROBLEM CAN CAUSE THE ENGINE TO MISFIRE, STALL OR BREAK DOWN COMPLETELY. MERCEDES BENZ AND ITS DEALERSHIPS BASICALLY SAY, OH WELL, YOU GOT A LEMON. WE ALSO CANNOT POSSIBLY PASS THE EMISSION TEST WITHOUT REPAIRS THAT COST MORE THAN THE BLUEBOOK VALUE OF THE CAR - WHICH HAS BEEN DEALER MAINTAINED AND GARAGED SINCE PURCHASE. WE BELIEVE THIS BALANCE SHAFT MANUFACTURING FLAW PRESENTS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE SUBJECT TO A MANDATORY RECALL AND REPAIRED ENTIRELY AT MERCEDES' EXPENSE.

NHTSA ID

11000641

Incident

Jun 9, 2017

Mileage

77,914 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.