2010 Toyota Fj Cruiser

Tires were purchased April 2026. Vehicle was then driven in June 2026 for off-road use, minimal usage prior to June due to mechanical issues). A structural failure occurred on 3 new truck tires (Size: 275/60R20, DOT: 0225) within 24 hours while driving under 10 MPH on a basic off-road trail. Day 1: Rear driver tire suddenly deflated with a loud thwapping sound. The tire separated from the bead and suffered a 3-4" sidewall tear. Vehicle was at 15 PSI (standard trail pressure). 10 companion trucks ran identical terrain without issue, isolating the failure to this tire batch. Swapped to spare. Day 2: Remaining tires aired up to 20 PSI to mitigate risk. Despite higher pressure and slow speeds, the exact same failure mode recurred on the replacement tire in the same rear driver location, causing another 3-4" sidewall tear. Trail patches failed. Borrowed a spare from another vehicle. 15 minutes later, a 3rd identical failure occurred on the rear passenger tire, causing a blowout and tearing on the inside sidewall. Vehicle was stranded, requiring a 2nd borrowed spare to exit. Tires had only 300 miles of total use. Failed components include the tire sidewalls and internal casing structures. All 3 failed tires are preserved and available for material inspection. Rapid, consecutive loss of multiple tires severely compromised vehicle stability, leaving me repeatedly stranded. Had these structural failures occurred at highway speeds rather than 10 MPH, a catastrophic loss of control or rollover could have occurred. The selling dealer has explicitly refused to file a warranty claim or inspect the failed casings. No prior warning lamps, pressure alerts, or symptoms occurred before the sudden, catastrophic failures.

NHTSA ID

11745754

Incident

Jun 12, 2026

The rear fuel tank mounting strap rusted in half. After filling vehicle with fuel and driving 10 miles home, I noticed the skid plate hanging down that covers the fuel tank. The plastic skid plate started to crack from the weight of the tank. The design of the skid plate to the tank allows moisture and contaminants to reside between the two, rotting the straps. Thankfully I noticed this as if I had kept driving I fear the tank would have completely fallen out of the vehicle. I ordered new straps and hardware, but during the parts search I found many owners of the Toyota FJ, all years, are having the same problem. Apparently the straps are just mild steel and were not treated with any corrosion preventative from the factory. I feel they should have been at least stainless steel. Part numbers for the straps are 77602-35050 and 77601-35110. I'll have photos once the parts come in and I take the vehicle apart. Currently I have a floor jack holding up the tank. Also to clarify, the skid plate is mounted to the fuel tank straps. Once both straps let go, the fuel tank is coming out with the skid plate. The fuel tank is located in front of the rear axle, the vehicle would run over it's own fuel tank, at least until the engine shuts off.

NHTSA ID

11700752

Incident

Nov 14, 2025

No proper rust protection causing corrosion and irreparable transmission damage.

NHTSA ID

11613380

Incident

Aug 26, 2024

The frame has rusted so badly it no longer is road safe and the frame needs to be replaced. Large hole in frame on front passenger side, and bad rusting all over. Mechanics said this is a known issue with FJ and Tacoma frames , and in my case the only solution is to replace the frame, which will cost (with associated work) $22K.

NHTSA ID

11512618

Incident

Feb 9, 2023

I have a dangerous steering issue. I tried to get my Toyota dealer to fix it, or adjust it but they said nothing was wrong. I feel they didn't want to even try. This issue has almost led to head-on collisions many times. I have replaced the tires, no help there. I had it aligned, (at dealer I purchased it from) with no improvements at all. What it does is, to stay in the center of the road I can not turn my head away from constantly adding steering input. This is an issue a big one, my car Drifts left or right but rarely goes straight when steered straight, I must constantly make adjustments to its direction. Before I replace the tires again, (the car has only 53,000 miles on it) and align it again I feel this problem must be fixed or properly adjusted to work without constant steering input to stay in my lane. I replaced tires with better than it came with, costing around $750 these are now showing bad wear after less than 20,000 miles and purchase information said I should not need to replace them for 60,000 miles. Additional information is the last 300 feet to my house is a dirt road, but it's not that bumpy and shouldn't be the reason that I can't steer it straight on asphalt.

NHTSA ID

11482639

Incident

Sep 17, 2010

The frame has alot of rust on metal and on welds affraid of frame failing and coming apart.

NHTSA ID

11450948

Incident

Feb 8, 2022

Owner of a 2010 FJ Cruiser. The amount of corrosion on the frame and components is very high for the age of the vehicle, it leads to significant safety concerns (Including gas tank straps are corroded). Toyota should rectify this issue as it seems like they did a poor job on this model to isolate against rust the frame. There should be a Recall for a re-treatment of the frame (Just like they did on the Tundra and Tacoma models).

NHTSA ID

11441352

Incident

Nov 22, 2021

Single Toyota 2010 FJ Cruiser Owner. Over the last 10/11 have been really diligent taking care of my truck, unfortunately due to what seems very poor quality steel or treatment of the frame and some parts when was build by Toyota, it has cause severe rust/rotten issue leading not only to significant safety concerns (broken gas tank straps and fuel lines) but also a significant amount of money spend treating the frame and part to prevent further corrosion that could\will eventually lead to complete failure.

NHTSA ID

11432203

Incident

Jan 1, 2021

Some 2005 – 2026 Toyota vehicles that have undergone water intrusion may exhibit a condition in which a musty odor is present. Follow the procedures in this bulletin to remediate the odor and address this condition. The purpose of this Service Bulletin is to provide general guidelines and procedures for odor remediation. This Service Bulletin provides a guide on how to prepare and treat the interior of the vehicle for odor remediation. Refer to the applicable model and model year Repair Manual and the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) website for the most up-to-date safety and precautionary guidelines.

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.

The condition known as acid rain is caused by airborne chemicals or particles in the atmosphere, which mix with rainwater, nighttime dew, or high humidity to form acidic compounds. If these contaminants settle and remain on a painted vehicle surface, especially the horizonal areas of the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage can occur. This damage is the result of actual etching of the paint and appears as pitting or water spots. As acid rain droplets on the vehicle surface evaporate, the concentration strength of the acid increases, causing deeper and more rapid damage. This evaporation and corrosive action also occur more rapidly on dark colored cars as direct sun heat increases. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. In areas known for high frequency and/or concentration of acid rain, frequent vehicle washing during high heat or humidity periods will minimize the potential for paint damage caused by acid rain. It is further recommended that either reverse osmosis or deionized water be used to prevent water spotting.

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.

Toyota vehicles are currently protected with RapgardTM protective film designed to protect the horizontal painted surfaces. This material protects from acid rain, environmental fallout, and rail contamination. Follow the Removal Procedure in this bulletin to remove the RapgardTM protective film within 90 days from initial application.

Vehicles may occasionally be subjected to contamination by airborne iron particles shed from railroad tracks, train wheels, exposure to heavy machinery facilities, grinding, welding, etc. This type of contamination can be identified by the presence of small, red or brown particles on the paint surface. These particles are often difficult to see on dark color paints but can be easily felt when brushing a hand across horizontal body surfaces such as the hood, roof, or deck lid. Follow the Repair Procedure in this bulletin to clean vehicles that may have been subjected to contamination by airborne iron particles such as rail dust during rail transportation or extended storage near industrial areas.