Accelator keeps getting stuck at traffic lights and while driving
- NHTSA ID
- 11502668
- Incident
- Jan 19, 2023
Owner-reported complaints naming the driver-assistance system, filed with NHTSA
Data refreshed
Reports naming forward-collision avoidance, lane keeping, back-over prevention, cruise control and related electronic driver-assistance systems. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2003 Chevrolet Impala submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 33 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
The 25 most recent of 33, in the owner's own words
Accelator keeps getting stuck at traffic lights and while driving
Traveling at 58 mph in Cruise Control for 10 minutes I increased speed with 4-6 rapid pushes of the Accelerate button in less than 1.5 seconds, Each push is 1 mph. I have never pushed it that rapidly.The engine acted as if I floored the accelerator & the transmission went from 4th to 3rd gear, speed went to 70+ and rapidly increasing. I stepped on the break pedal several times to disable CC but no help, I switched the CC button to the off position several times, no help. Now at 85+ and accelerating hard in wide open throttle (WOT). I shift to Neutral and turned the ignition to the ACC position to retain steering ability as the engine was RPM'ing out to destruction. I coasted off the highway and set ignition to off. After a few minutes I turned engine on and it rev'd out of control, still WOT. Ignition off did not reset the problem. I opened the hood to disconnected the battery & I observe that neither the CC or accelerator cables are not holding the throttle body (TB) in "WOT", it was closed in an idle position. It is not mechanical. I disconnected the battery for several minutes and then the system operated normally. I have used CC a million times but never have pushed that accel button that fast. I served 7 years as a Reactor Operation onboard US navy Fast attack Submarines, have torn apart and assemble mechanical and electrical reactor systems. I have been a Hardware Engineer for 40+ yrs and have 10 US patents in fault tolerant server design. I've been a car guy since 5 yrs old. This is a problem with the cars computer or its code. The rapid pushing of the CC accel button is key here as well as memory retaining this CC state after Key OFF. Its a good thing I experienced with many hard casualty life and death situations while serving, because my car was accelerating out of control, my experience and training in the US Military taught me to keep cool and think.You really should investigate this. I can tell you more specifics but I'm character limited.
THE SECURITY SYSTEM LOCKS AND WILL NOT LET ME START THE VEHICLE EVERY COUPLE TIMES THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
TURN SIGNALS WORK INTERMITTENTLY FOR 6 YEARS. TRANSMISSION MAKES SQUEAK UPON STARTING FROM DEAD STOP AFTER CHANGING FLUID AND FILTER FOR 2ND TIME. ABS WENT OUT 6 YEARS AGO.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE AIR BAG WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED THAT THE AIR BAG WOULD DEPLOY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO COAD CHEVROLET IN CAPE GIRARDEAU, MISSOURI, 573-335-5581 TO BE REPAIRED PER NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 14V400000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM) IN APPROXIMATELY APRIL OF 2017. THE DEALER PROVIDED THE CONTACT WITH A TWO KEY RING HOLDER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED FOR THE RECENT FAILURE ACCORDING TO SPECIFICATIONS ON THE LETTER ORIGINALLY RECEIVED, WHICH SPECIFIED THAT AN INSERT IN THE KEY SLOT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE PROVIDED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200,000. *TT UPDATED 8/28/18*JB *TT *JB
'TAKATA RECALL' NO ACCELERATION AFTER 2RPM
VEHICLE IS IN PARKED AND IM ABOUT TO START THE VEHICLE IT SEEMS TO SLOWLY FAIL OR BACKFIRES DURING MULTIPLE TIMES OF TRYING. WHILE IN MOTION ON THE STREETS DRIVING AT 10-35 MPH OR IN MOTION ON HWY 40-65 MPH THE VEHICLE WILL SHUT OFF OR SOMETIMES IT WOULD LOSS POWER EVEN IF MY FOOT IS ON THE GAS PETAL. ON HWY THIS COULD CAUSE A SERIES ACCIDENT
ABS, TRACTION, AND BREAK LIGHTS COME ON........ THEN WHEN I PUSH ON THE GAS PADDLE ITS OFTEN LIKE THE BRAKES WANT TO LOCK UP , WITH A SCRUBBING SOUND.... ALSO WHEN I PUSH THE BREAK PADDLE DOWN IT OFTEN MAKES A SOUND AND THE BREAK PADDLE FEELS LIKE IT COMES BACK UP WITH THE BREAK STILL DOWN,.........BUT THEN WHEN I DRIVE LIKE 20-25 MILES THE LIGHTS GO OFF AND HARDLY COME ON UNTIL I STOP AGAIN
WHEN I AM DRIVING DOWN ANY ROAD, STOPPED AND TURNING THE ABS SYSTEM ENGAGES CAUSING GRINDING NOISE. LOSS OF POWER AND PERIODICALLY BRAKES LOCK UP AND GAS PEDAL LOCKS. WHEN PULLING OFF FROM A STOP I CAN NOT ACCELERATE & RPM GOES ALMOST RED LINE, CAR STARTS TO JERK AND AND TRANSMISSION DOESN'T SHIFT. I HAVE TO LET OFF GAS PEDAL AND ALLOW TO SHIFT. IT HAS STALLED NUMORUS TIMES WHEN PULLING INTO TRAFFIC AND ALMOST CAUSED ME TO BE HIT. THE SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL/ABS WARNING LIGHT DINGS AND STAYS LIT. I MANUALLY TURN OFF ABS BUT PROBLEM STILL OCCURS. ALSO THE WIRING THRU OUT THE CAR HAS FAILED TO MY REARVIEW MIRROR, DOMELIGHTS AND RADIO PANEL. MY GAS MILEAGE HAS SIGNIFICANTLY DECREASED. THE PROBLEM STARTED AROUND THE BEGINNING OF THE YEAR AND HAS PROGRESSIVELY GOTTEN WORSE TO THE POINT I AND SCARED TO DRIVE MY CAR.
MY TURNING SIGNALS WORK ON AND OFF ALL OF A SUDDEN. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED I WAS ON THE FREEWAY AND WAS ATTEMPTING TO GET OVER AND MY RIGHT TURNING SIGNAL WOULDN'T WORK BUT THE LEFT TURNING SIGNAL WORKED FINE. THEN AFTER A DAY OR TWO THE RIGHT TURNING SIGNAL WOULD WORK BUT THEN THE LEFT TURNING SIGNAL WON'T WORK. THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THEY WOULD BOTH WORK THEN BOTH STOP WORKING. NOW A MONTH HAS PASSED AND NEITHER ONE OF THEM WORK MOST THE TIME, BUT WILL WORK FOR A HOT SECOND AND THEN STOP WORKING. THIS IS ONLY FOR THE REAR TURNING SIGNAL THOUGH THE FRONT TURNING SIGNAL HAVE ALWAYS WORKED PROPERLY AND STILL DO.
WHILST DRIVING DOWN THE ROADWAY THE THROTTLE BODY BECAME STUCK IN THE OPEN POSITION CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO INCREASE SPEED WITHOUT THE DRIVER BEING IN CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE WHICH COULD RESULT IN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WITH OTHER VEHICLES ON THE ROADWAY
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CRUISE CONTROL ACTIVATED INDEPENDENTLY, THE HEADLIGHTS AND BRAKE LIGHTS FLICKERED, AND THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED INTERMITTENTLY. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE HEATER HAD TO BE RUNNING FOR THE CRUISE CONTROL TO DEACTIVATE. IN ADDITION, THE EXTERIOR LIGHTING FLICKERED WHEN THE ENGINE WAS NOT RUNNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE FAILURES WERE UNDETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.
I FIRST STARTED HAVING THIS PROBLEM IN OCTOBER 2015. I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE IN JULY 2015. I TRUSTED THIS COMPANY BECAUSE I SEEN THEY HAD GREAT REVIEWS. I ACTUALLY TRADER MY PREVIOUS CAR IN BECAUSE IT WAS HAVING PROBLEMS STARTING AND ALSO SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING. NOW MY CURRENT CAR IS HAVING PROBELMS STARTING. I HAD MY BATTERY, ALTERNATOR & STARTER CHECKED, AND IT WAS GOOD. THE COMPANY I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM PROVIDED WARRANTY COVERAGE ON THE VEHICLE. I TOOK THE CAR TO GET SERVICED IN THE BEGINNING OF OCTOBER FOR AN ENGINE MOUNT REPLACEMENT. THEY REPLACED MY ENGINE MOUNTS AND FUEL PUMP. 2 DAYS AFTER THAT SERVICE I STARTED HAVING ISSUES STARTING THE CAR. WHEN YOU PUT THE KEY IN YOU USUALLY HEAR BEEPING NOISE AND I DIDN'T. THAN MY BATTERY LIGHT, ABS LIGHT, TRAC OFF LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON AND IN THE MESSAGE CENTER TRACKING SYSTEM LIGHT CAME UP. THIS WAS VERY INCONVENIENT DUE TO THE WEATHER AND HAVING TO GET 2 TODDLERS READY FOR SCHOOL IN THE AM. I TOOK THE CAR TO MY MECHANIC AND HE REPLACED THE IGNITION SWITCH. I DIDN'T TAKE IT BACK TO THE SAME PLACE BECAUSE EVERYTIME YOU TAKE IT FOR SERVICE MY DEDUCTIBLE IS $100. AFTER 2 WEEKS AFTER REPLACING THE IGNITION SWITCH THE PROBLEM HAPPENED AGAIN. SO I CALLED MY WARRANTY SERVICE CENTER THEY SAID TO BRING IT BACK BUT IF IT NEEDS FIXING I HAVE TO PAY AGAIN. (ALSO I AM PAYING A CAR NOTE OF $115 A WEEK). I REFUSE TO KEEP PAYING MONEY FOR THIS PROBLEM. THIS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS IN SO MANY WAYS. IT'S VERY FUSTRATING BECAUSE I TRADER MY PREVIOUS CAR (2000 BUICK REGAL) IN FOR THE SAME REASON. I'M NOT SURE IF IT'S A WIRING ISSUE, SENSOR ISSUE OR MAYBE WHEN THEY CHANGED MY ENGINE MOUNTS OR FUEL PUMP SOMETHING GOT DISCONNECTED. THIS PROBLEM DIDN'T START UNTIL THEY DID SERVICE ON MY VEHICLE. PLEASE I NEED SOME HELP ON WHAT TO DO. LITTLE MINOR ISSUES I DON'T MIND KEEPING UP WITH BUT SOMETHING LIKE THIS NEEDS TO BE FIXED!
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA. THE CONTACT STATED THE VEHICLE INCREASED SPEED VIOLENTLY ONCE THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS RELEASED. THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS NOT DEPRESSED. THE CONTACT PULLED OVER, SHUT THE IGNITION OFF AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE, BUT THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE FAILURE RECURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE CONTACT WAS A MECHANIC AND STATED THAT THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 139,000. UPDATED 1/12/16 *CN
MY PASSLOCK SYSTEM HAS BEEN MALFUNCTIONING FOR YEARS NOW (2007-2015) AND AT RANDOM INTERVALS, MY CAR WILL NOT START AND I HAVE TO WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE THE ENGINE WILL START. SOMETIMES THE "SECURITY" LIGHT WILL TURN ON WHILE I AM OPERATING THE VEHICLE AND AFTER I HAVE PARKED IT, THE SECURITY LIGHT WILL FLASH AND I CAN'T START THE ENGINE UNTIL AFTER THE 15 MINUTE CYCLE HAS CONCLUDED. NOT ONLY HAS THIS ISSUE BEEN AN INCONVENIENCE, BUT I HAVE HAD OCCASIONS WHERE IT HAS PUT ME IN DANGER. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PASSLOCK SYSTEM FAILURE, NOR DO I HAVE THE FUNDS TO REPAIR OR REMOVE IT. I BELIEVE THAT PASSLOCK WAS A FAULTY SYSTEM FROM THE BEGINNING AND THE FACT THAT IT HAS NOT BEEN RECALLED SHOCKS ME. I AM VERY AFRAID THAT ONE DAY THE PASSLOCK SYSTEM MALFUNCTION WILL OCCUR WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION AND THAT I WILL LOSE POWER STEERING, BRAKING, AND OTHER VITAL OPERATIONAL FUNCTIONS. NOTICEABLY, THE PASSLOCK MALFUNCTION HAS BECOME MORE FREQUENT, SO I NEEDED TO FILE THIS COMPLAINT. I HAVE TALKED TO SERVICE EXPERTS AT MY LOCAL CHEVY DEALERSHIP AND THEY HAVE TOLD ME ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION THAT THIS ISSUE IS WIDESPREAD, INCLUDING MANY GM VEHICLES, AND THAT EVENTUALLY MY CAR JUST WON'T START ANYMORE. THE QUOTED PRICES TO FIX THIS ISSUE (EITHER REPAIRING IT OR REMOVING IT ENTIRELY) HAVE BEEN RIDICULOUSLY HIGH AND I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY I SHOULD BE FORCED INTO PAYING FOR A WELL-KNOWN GM/CHEVROLET PROBLEM.
DEFECTIVE IGNITION SWITCH CAUSED CRUISE CONTROL TO MALFUNCTION.
I WAS TRAVELING ON A 2 LANE ROAD. A TRUCK PULLING AN ENCLOSED TRAILER WAS IN FRONT OF ME TURNED ON HIS RIGHT BLINKER AND BEGAN TO BRAKE TO MAKE THE TURN. I WAS TRAVELING 77 MPH, SO I MOVED TO THE ONCOMING TRAFFIC LANE (THE LEFT LANE) IN ORDER TO PASS THE TRUCK. AT THE LAST SECOND THE TRUCK SWERVED INTO THE LEFT LANE IN ORDER TO MAKE A WIDE TURN. I ABRUPTLY JERKED THE STEERING WHEEL RIGHT TO AVOID COLLISION WITH THE TRUCK, BUT THE VEHICLE SEEMED TO LOSE POWER STEERING AS WELL AS POWER BRAKES. I WAS UNABLE TO STRAIGHTEN THE STEERING WHEEL BACK AFTER JERKING IT TO THE RIGHT TO GO BACK INTO THE RIGHT LANE; MY VEHICLE HIT THE BACK OF THE ENCLOSED TRAILER AND THEN HIT STEEP DITCH WHERE MY BACK PASSENGER TIRE POPPED AND THE VEHICLE FLIPPED ONTO ITS ROOF. THE VEHICLES AIRBAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY EVEN THOUGH THE VEHICLE HAS SIGNIFICANT DAMAGE TO THE FRONT , TOP AND SIDES OF IT. I REGAINED CONSCIENTIOUSNESS I ATTEMPTED TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND REMOVE THE KEYS FROM THE IGNITION. BUT I REALIZED THAT THE KEYS WERE NOT I N THE IGNITION.I CRAWLED OUT OF THE PASSENGER WINDOW TO EXIT THE VEHICLE. THE KEYS WERE LATER FOUND BY MY HUSBAND LOOSE IN THE VEHICLE. I HIT MY HEAD HARD WHEN THE VEHICLE FLIPPED, GOOD DEAL OF BLOOD ON ME FROM WHAT ENDED UP BEING MULTIPLE SUPERFICIAL LACERATIONS AS WELL AS A DEEP WOUND IN MY LEFT KNEE, WHICH REQUIRED 12 STITCHES TO CLOSE UP. I WILL HAVE A SCAR FROM IT FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE. I WAS RUSHED BY AMBULANCE TO THE HOSPITAL AND WAS RELEASED AROUND 9 PM. 2 DAYS LATER WE RECEIVED THE IGNITION SWITCH RECALL NOTICE IN THE MAIL GM REFUSES TO ANSWER ANY OF OUR QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS WRECK. GM DID RETRIEVE THE BLACK BOX INFO FROM THE VEHICLE., THEY REFUSE TO PROVIDE US WITH ANY EXPLANATION TO WHY THE AIRBAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY OR WHY THERE SEEMED TO BE A MALFUNCTION WITHIN THE CAR WHICH LED TO THE ACCIDENT. *TR
THERE ARE 3 RECALLS I HAVE FOUND THAT POSSIBLY ARE EFFECTING MY 2003 IMPALA BUT BECAUSE MY SPECIFIC VIN # DOESN'T FALL UNDER ANY OF THESE GM IS REFUSING TO FIX THESE PROBLEMS. 1)THE BODY CONTROL MODULE NEEDS TO BE RESET. APPARENTLY WHEN IT GOES OUT THE CRUISE CONTROL DISENGAGES.....AND MY CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT IS ON BUT WON'T ENGAGE. PLUS MY MECHANIC SAYS THE BODY CONTROL MODULE ALSO IS WHAT IS COULD BE CAUSING MY HEATER FAN TO NOT WORK NOR MY INFORMATION DISPLAY TO WORK. BUT LOW AND BEHOLD WHEN THE CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT GOES OFF THEY BOTH WORK 2) THERE IS A RECALL STATING DROPS OF ENGINE OIL MAY LEAK ON EXHAUST MANIFOLD WITH HARD BRAKING AND I SOMETIMES SMELL OIL BURNING AFTER I DRIVE. IF IT WAS MY ACTUAL ENGINE LEAKING OIL I WOULD SMELL IT ALL THE TIME BUT I DON'T IT'S JUST AFTER I DRIVE CERTAIN PLACES THAT ARE VERY CONGESTED AND I BRAKE A LOT 3) THERE IS A FUEL VAPOR LEAK FROM THE GAS TANK WHICH IS BELIEVED TO BE CAUSING MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON. IT THROWS THE CODE STATING I NEED TO POSSIBLE REPLACE THE GAS CAP (WHICH I HAVE DONE) AND ONLY COMES ON AFTER I HAVE PUT GAS IN THE CAR. I'M ALITTLE CONCERNED AND APPLAUD THAT JUST BECAUSE MY VIN # DOESN'T SHOW THESE RECALLS BUT IMPALAS ARE HAVING THESE RECALLS THAT GM WON'T FIX THESE PROBLEMS. *TR
THE CAR RANDOMLY SHUTS OFF AT TIMES WHEN U PUSH THE GAS TO HARD WHILE THE CAR TRYING PICK UP SPEED .THEN I HAVE TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP PUT THE CAR IN PARK (ALL THIS WHILE IM IN MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC) AN THEN START IT BACK UP . IM NOT THE ONLY ONE HAVING THIS PROBLEM MY COUSIN HAVING THE SAME EXACTLY PROBLEM BUT HERS START RIGHT BACK UP LIKE MINE OR SOME TIMES TAKE A LITTLE WHILE FOR THIS TO HAPPEN . SHE ALSO SAID SHE SEEN SOMETHING COME ON TV SAYING SOME ABOUT IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM CONTACT SOMEBODY BUT SHE DIDN'T GET THE NUMBER AN NEVER SAW THE AD ON TV AGAIN. *TR
WHEN ON THE HIGHWAY DOING APPROX. 65 MPH WITH MY CRUISE CONTROL ON, ALL OF SUDDEN THE CRUISE CONTROL DROPPED OUT AND VEHICLE SLOWED DOWN DRAMATICALLY.. ALSO THE HEAT AND AC WOULD NOT WORK AT ALL. THESE CONDITIONS CONTINUED INTERMITTENTLY. WHEN WE WENT TO MY MECHANIC HE HAD AN IGNITION SWITCH WAITING, HE KNEW OF THE PROBLEM BEFORE WE ARRIVED. AS SOON AS HE TOUCHED THE IGNITION SWITCH THE ENGINE SHUT OFF. SINCE WE HAD THE SWITCH REPLACED WE HAVE HAD NO PROBLEMS. THIS SOUNDS LIKE A SIMILAR PROBLEM AS THE RECALL. THANK YOU *TR
I WAS DRIVING ON THE BACK ROADS AT THE SPEED LIMIT OF 55MPH WHEN THE CAR STARTED TO JERK VIOLENTLY. I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT WAS GOING ON SO I LET OFF THE GAS AND HIT THE BRAKES A LITTLE. I WAS ABLE TO COME TO A STOP SAFELY, BUT THE JERKING WAS DANGEROUS AS IT PROPELLED ME INTO THE ONCOMING TRAFFIC WHEN I WAS ON A CURVE. I DON'T FEEL SAFE DRIVING THE CAR NOW. THE CAR SHOWS NO CODES AND NO WARNING SIGNALS. I THINK IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE TRANSMISSION, BUT I AM NOT SURE. I READ MANY OTHERS WITH TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS AND I THINK THIS IS MORE DANGEROUS THAN PEOPLE THINK AND IT SHOULD BE RECALLED IF ITS A KNOWN PROBLEM. I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. *TR
THE SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT IS ON THE DASH PANEL AND MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND PULL TO ONE SIDE WHEN THE BRAKES WERE APPLIED. THE PROBLEM QUICKLY GREW INTO THE CAT CONSTANTLY PULLS TO ONE SIDE AND THE STEERING FEELS SLOPPY AND LOOSE IF THAT MAKES SENSE. THE TRACTION CONTROL DOESN'T WORK BUT WILL RANDOMLY KICK IN WHILE DRIVING AND THE CAR INSTANTLY FEELS AS IF THE BRAKES ARE BEING APPLIED AND GRINDER BUT THE WORSE PART IS HOW THE PULLING TO ONE SIDE BECOMES A QUICK GRAB AND JERK TO ONE SIDE AND HAS NEARLY CAUSED ME SEVERAL ACCIDENTS AND I CANNOT RELAX AND DRIVE. I AM ALWAYS TENSE AND READY TO FIGHT TO KEEP MY CAR GOING STRAIGHT AND NOW WITH THE BAD MICHIGAN WINTER ITS IMPOSSIBLE TO DRIVE ON SOME DAYS. I'VE BEEN TOLD THAT I NEED A NEW TRACTION CONTROL PUMP WHICH IS GOING TO COST AROUND $2500 AND UP DEPENDING ON WHAT THEY FIND BUT WILL AUTOMATICALLY START AT $2500. THAT COST IS RIDICULOUS AND I HAVE TALKED TO PROB APPROX A HUNDRED PEOPLE WHO EITHER HAD THE SAME PROBLEM OR KNEW OF SOMEONE WHO DOES, OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS. MY CAR IS NOW PARKED AND I HAVE TO BEG FOR RIDES TO WORK BECAUSE ITS WINTER AND I CANNOT PUT MYSELF AND OTHERS IN DANGER WITH THIS ISSUE. I HAVE TO WORK AND TRANSPORT KIDS TO DIFFERENT EVENTS AND FEEL THAT THIS PART HAS TO BE DEFECTIVE FROM THE START IF THERE'S THAT MANY PEOPLE WITH THIS SAME ISSUE. AND ALL OF THE SAME EXACT COMPLAINTS FOUND ONLINE. PLEASE I'M BEGGING YOU TO CHECK INTO THIS ISSUE TO SEE IF A RECALL IS NECESSARY. THANK YOU SO MUCH. *TR
ANTI-LOCKING BRAKING SYSTEM, TRACTION CONTROL, AND VSA LIGHT COMES ON UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS. ANTI-LOCK SYSTEM ENGAGES AND PULSATES WHEN THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED AT VARIOUS SPEEDS AND ALSO THE VEHICLE DOESN'T' ACCELERATE IF DEPRESSING THE ACCELERATOR. THIS COULD OR WILL CAUSE A SERIOUS ACCIDENT IF THE SYSTEM IS NOT FIXED IMMEDIATELY. SUSPECT THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WHICH IS BUILT INTO THE WHEEL HUB. I AM REQUESTING THIS ISSUE BE REPAIRED AND THE FACTORY EXPENSE SINCE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND A VERY WELL KNOW DOCUMENTED CASE. *TR
ENGINE ACCELERATES TO 3,000 RPM DURING WARM UP (SOMETIMES). USUALLY OCCURS ABOUT FIVE MINUTES AFTER COLD START. HAS LASTED 10 TO 15 MINUTES WHILE DRIVING. HAS NOT REPEATED DURING SAME DAY AND NOT HAPPEN AGAIN FOR DAYS OR WEEKS DURING THE PAST FIVE MONTHS. REPLACED ECM (COMPUTER), IAC (IDLE AIR CONTROL), COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR AND CLEANED THROTTLE BODY. DEALER CANNOT SUGGEST SOLUTION. UNABLE TO GET CAR TO DEALER WHILE PROBLEM IS HAPPENING. SCANNED FOR DTCS MULTIPLE TIMES, NONE. CONTROLLING SPEED WITH BRAKE IS NOT A GOOD SOLUTION. SAFETY HAZARD! *TR THE CONSUMER STATED WHEN THE BODY CONTROL MODULE FAILED, THE KEY FOB WOULD NOT WORK, THE ENGINE WOULD NOT START, THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WOULD NOT COME ON AND THE HEAD LIGHT WOULD NOT TURN OFF. THE CONSUMER HAD TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, IN ORDER TO TURN THE HEAD LIGHTS OFF. AFTER RECONNECTING THE BATTERY, EVERYTHING RETURNED TO NORMAL. THE BCM WAS REPLACED. UPDATED 03/19/13
ABS TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS ON INTERMITTENTLY FOR 3 YEARS. HAD THIS CHECKED BY DEALER NUMEROUS TIMES AND WAS NOT ABLE TO DIAGNOSE A PROBLEM. THE LIGHTS NOW STAY ON FOR THE LAST 8 MONTHS. *TR
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