2001 Mercedes-Benz C320

The contact owns a 2001 Mercedes-Benz C320. The contact stated that there was rust on the bottom of the driver’s side and passenger’s side door panels. The contact stated that the water ran down, enter the door, and then failed to properly drain. The contact stated there were no drain plugs or holes for the water to drain from the door. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, who took photos, but the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The failure mileage was approximately 99,000.

NHTSA ID

11552668

Incident

May 10, 2001

Mileage

99,000 mi

The contact owns a 2001 Mercedes-Benz C320. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V918000 (Visibility) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

NHTSA ID

11468619

Incident

Dec 28, 2019

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES-BENZ C320. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V918000 (VISIBILITY). THE CONTACT CALLED AN UNKNOWN MERCEDES-BENZ DEALER, LOCATED IN MESA, AZ, AND IT WAS CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SUNROOF FAILED CLOSE, CAUSING WATER TO LEAK INTO THE VEHICLE DURING A CAR WASH. THE CONTACT STATED HAT THE ROOF LINING WAS DAMAGED FROM THE WATER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND WAS NOT ABLE TO CONFIRM WHEN THE PARTS WERE TO BECOME AVAILABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 230,000. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

NHTSA ID

11326538

Incident

Mar 1, 2020

Mileage

230,000 mi

2001 MERCEDES BENZ C320. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO DEFECTIVE HEADLINER. *LD *JS

NHTSA ID

11090591

Incident

May 3, 2018

MY BATTERY KEEPS DRAINING. WHEN I LOOK AT THE DISPLAY SCREEN IT ONLY STATES THAT THE FRONT RIGHT LIGHT IS OUT. WHEN I HAD TWO MECHANICS LOOK AT IT AND THEY STATED THAT MY BATTERY IS BEING DRAINED DUE TO MY SEAT FUNCTION NOT WORKING PROPERLY. AFTER NOT USING MY BATTERY FOR HOURS IT DIES. I KEEP HAVING TO JUMP IT. MY BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED LESS THAN A MONTH AGO SO I KNOW THE BATTERY IS NOT AN ISSUE. MY DISPLAY SCREEN GIVES ME A FEW DIFFERENT MALFUNCTIONS AND THAN ONE MOMENT IT DISPLAYS NO MALFUNCTIONS. AFTER CHARGING MY CAR AND THAN LEAVING IT A STRANGE CHURPING SOUND GOES OFF IN MY CAR CAUSING MY BATTERY TO DIE AGAIN. THERE ARE TIMES WHEN MY CAR HAS DIED IN AT NIGHT IN STRANGE AREAS AND I HAVE TO ALONE AND UNSAFELY JUMP MY CAR AND SIT UNTIL MY JUMPER PROVIDES MY BATTERY WITH ENOUGH JUICE TO START MY CAR. WHEN I AM DRIVING MY FUNCTIONS STOP WORKING BECAUSE MY BATTERY ISN'T STRONG ENOUGH TO POWER THE EVERYTHING. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON A NUMBER OF OCCASIONS.

NHTSA ID

10885314

Incident

Jul 16, 2016

I HAD A FEW ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS BUT HAVE NOW BEEN RESOLVED THROUGH MANY REPAIR SHOP VISITS. I HAVE 109,000 MILES ON THE CAR. NOW. THE ISSUE THAT KEPT OCCURRING IS THE PASSENGER DOOR HANDLE THAT KEEPS COMING OFF. I ALREADY REPLACED IT ONCE AND THE PART ITSELF IS $350. I CAN BUY THE WHOLE DOOR FOR $300 AT THE SCRAP YARD. NOT SURE WHAT TO DO. I FEEL LIKE ITS THE GLUE AND MAYBE THE HOT HUMID WEATHER IS AFFECTING IT? I DID HAVE TO REPLACE A NEW BATTERY AND THOUGHT SOMETHING WAS WRONG WITH THE CAR BECAUSE IT DRAINED SO QUICKLY. I THINK THE BATTERY WAS JUST BAD AND ITS BEEN FINE EVER SINCE.

NHTSA ID

10863638

Incident

Jun 15, 2010

Mileage

85,000 mi

I JUST BOUGHT THE CAR AND TWO DAYS LATER THE SMART KEY WON'T TURN, CAN'T UNLOCK THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE SHIFFTER THE GOOD THINK THE CAR WAS PARKED ON MY DRIVE WAY CALL TOW TRUCK TAKE TO THE SHOP AND THEY SAY I NEED A NEW KEY AND IGNITION CONTROL MODULE BUT ONLY DEALER CAN DO THAT, $1,400.00 DOLLARS JOB

NHTSA ID

10861059

Incident

Mar 29, 2016

Mileage

109,042 mi

I BOUGHT A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ C320 VEHICLE USED ON 9/19. AFTER TAKING IT HOME, I NOTICED WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE ACCELERATES ON ITS OWN WITHOUT MY FOOT ON THE PETAL. I DOUBLE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE THE CRUISE CONTROL FUNCTION WAS OFF AND THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO ACCELERATE ON ITS OWN AT A HIGH SPEED, UP TO 55MPH.WHEN I DRIVE, I AM CONSTANTLY HITTING THE BRAKES TO KEEP FROM COLLIDING WITH OTHER VEHICLES. WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN PARK, THE RPMS REACH 30,000 AND THE ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE IT'S ACCELERATING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. THERE ARE MANY ERROR CODES ON THIS CAR, SO HOW WAS THE CAR DEALERSHIP ABLE TO SELL THIS CAR LEGALLY? I NEED TO RETURN THIS VEHICLE ASAP. PLEASE HELP.

NHTSA ID

10775486

Incident

Sep 19, 2015

Mileage

108,000 mi

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Vehicle with atypical reduced heat output. Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.