2006 Mercedes-Benz S430

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MERCEDES-BENZ S430. WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, THE VEHICLE STARTED TO JERK AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED AND FLICKERED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE CONTACT DROVE THE VEHICLE HOME AND IT STALLED. THE VEHICLE FAILED TO RESTART AND THE KEY FAILED TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WAS COMPLETED, BUT NO FAILURE CODE WAS FOUND. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 134,000.

NHTSA ID

11162032

Incident

Nov 8, 2017

Mileage

134,000 mi

2006 MERCEDES BENZ S 430. CONSUMER STATES THAT INSTRUMENT PANEL IN VEHICLE WENT OUT. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE MANUFACTURER REFUSED TO HONOR THE RECALL DUE TO THE VEHICLE'S AGE.*JS

NHTSA ID

11122571

Incident

Aug 28, 2018

MY DOOR LOCK WOULD NOT WORK, COULD NOT EVEN MANUALLY OPEN THEM FROM THE CONSOLE. TOOK IT IN TO BE REPAIRED, WAS TOLD THAT THE ACTUATOR HAD FRIED AND MELTED THE UNIT. IT WAS REPLACED AND WITHIN SEVERAL WEEKS THE "NEW ACTUATOR " ALSO FRIED. WAS TOLD THAT THE COMPUTER SYSTEM WOULD SHUT IT DOWN BUT THE UNIT CONTINUES TO RUN EVEN WHEN THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF! WITH THE UNIT BEING IN THE TRUNK IT'S A MIRACLE THAT THE CAR DID NOT CATCH ON FIRE. IN ORDER TO REPAIR THIS UNIT, AND HOPEFULLY THEY MUST REMOVE ALL DOORS HEAD REST AND SEATS CHECK ALL VACUUM LINES TO FIND OUT WHICH ONE IS LEAKING, AND OR REPLACE ALL VACUUM LINES, AND PRAY THAT WORKS, THE MINIMUM COST OF THIS IS OVER $5000.00 DOLLARS! NOT ONLY IS THIS A FIRE HAZARD WAITING TO BLOW UP, NOT BEING ABLE TO LOCK OR UNLOCK YOUR DOORS. THE DEALERSHIP SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE TO REPAIR THIS SHORTY/ I'LL BUILT PART! BEFORE SOMEONE IS HURT OR KILLED BY THIS UNIT. ALSO AS I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD MY RIGHT STRUT ASSEMBLY BROKE. I LOOKED UP RECALL INFO, THERE WAS A RECALL ON THAT , BUT WAS TOLD NOT FOR MY VIN! JUST ANOTHER SAFETY HAZARD FOR THE 2006 S430! DOES SOMEONE HAVE TO DIE FIRST?

NHTSA ID

11006584

Incident

Apr 7, 2017

Mileage

91,000 mi

DO NOT BUY THESE SPEC-D HEADLAMP FOR 2006 S-430 AFTER 6 MONTHS IT WENT DEFECTIVE I BOUGHT THEM FROM CARID IN NOVEMBER 2015 JUNE/JULY 2016 THEY WENT COMPLETELY DEAD SEE PICTURE BELOW

NHTSA ID

10892795

Incident

Jul 13, 2016

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MERCEDES-BENZ S430. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FAILED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL CLUSTER FAILED, BUT WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 06V028000 (INTERIOR LIGHTING). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

NHTSA ID

10891477

Incident

Jul 16, 2016

ENGINE COMPARTMENT FIRE IN 2006 S430 MERCEDES-BENZ ? JANUARY 16, 2014 AS I ACCELERATED TO GET ON THE ROAD, I SMELLED A STRANGE ODOR. I THOUGHT IT WAS COMING FROM A TRUCK WE PASSED. I OPENED THE WINDOW & TURNED OFF THE HEATER TO CLEAR THE AIR IN THE CAR. IN A FEW SECONDS, I CLOSED THE WINDOW AND RE-STARTED THE HEATER, WHICH IMMEDIATELY FILLED THE CABIN WITH HEAVY SMOKE. I AGAIN STOPPED THE HEATER AND OPENED THE WINDOW. THE SMOKE CLEARED AND SMELLED SOMETHING BURNING. A FEW SECONDS LATER, I SAW FLAMES COMING RIGHT OUT OF THE AIR DUCT GRILL IN THE HOOD. I PULLED OFF I-275 BETWEEN EXITS 63 AND 65, ON THE RIGHT SHOULDER. I THEN HIT THE MERCEDES SOS BUTTON. MY PASSENGER DIALED 911. WHEN THE MBRACE OPERATOR CAME ON THE LINE, I SAID THAT I HAD AN ENGINE FIRE, BUT THE CABIN WAS FILLING WITH SMOKE. I OPENED THE HOOD, I GRABBED MY PHONE AND EXITED THE CAR. AT THIS POINT, STARTED TAKING PHOTOS. I TOOK A WINDSHIELD CLEANER SPRAY FROM THE TRUNK, TRIED TO EXTINGUISH THE FIRE WITH IT. IT FAILED TO HAVE ANY EFFECT. ABOUT AT THAT TIME A GOOD SAMARITAN STOPPED HIS PICKUP TRUCK. HE HAD A FIRE EXTINGUISHER, WHICH HE USED TO PUT OUT THE FIRE. A FEW MINUTES LATER THE UNION TOWNSHIP FIRE ENGINE ARRIVED, BUT THE FIRE WAS OUT. THEY DID A REPORT. THEN THE UNION TOWNSHIP POLICE ARRIVED. THE OFFICER SAID THE REPORT WILL BE FILED BY THE FIRE DEPT. *TR

NHTSA ID

10562978

Incident

Jan 16, 2014

Mileage

131,388 mi

WE HAVE BEEN RECEIVING MESSAGES FOR THINGS HAPPENING IN CAR ( EX LIGHT OUT TRUNK WON'T OPEN ETC.) WE HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT IT IS A WIRING HARNESS PROBLEM. THEY ARE WELL AWARE OF THE PROBLEM IN THE CARS BUT HAVE NOT TURNED IT IN AS A RECALL. *TR

NHTSA ID

10482773

Incident

Feb 29, 2012

Mileage

87,597 mi

THE "AIRMATICS-VISIT WORKSHOP" WORDING CAME ON MY SCREEN YESTERDAY ON THE HIGHWAY. HITTING THE UNLOCK BUTTON KICKED ON SUSPENSION AS IT SHOULD AND IT WAS SPUTTERING INSTEAD OF THE USUAL RAISE NOISE. IT SAT OVERNIGHT AND NOW IT SITTING PRETTY LOW. THIS IS THE 2ND TIME IN 6 MONTHS THE AIR COMPRESSOR HAS GONE OUT. *TR

NHTSA ID

10480063

Incident

Oct 13, 2012

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).