2004 Mercedes-Benz S430

THE SUBJECT S-CLASS VEHICLES CONTAIN A COMPRESSED AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM THAT USES AIR STRUTS ON EACH OF THE FOUR WHEELS IN LIEU OF TRADITIONAL SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS.THESE AIR STRUTS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE AND CONTROL RIDE HEIGHT.IN THE EVENT OF THE LOSS OF AIR FROM THE SYSTEM, AN ALERT WILL FLASH ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WARNING THE DRIVER TO EITHER DRIVE CAREFULLY OR TO STOP THE VEHICLE.THE VEHICLE RIDE HEIGHT CAN BE REDUCED BY AS MUCH AS 105 MM BELOW NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT BEFORE THE FULL LOAD OF THE VEHICLE FOR THAT WHEEL COMES TO REST ON A STEEL ROD, WITH A RUBBER STOP ON THE END, LOCATED IN THE SHOCK ABSORBER.THIS REST-STOP CONDITION IS DESIGNED SUCH THAT THERE IS NO IMPACT ON VEHICLE CONTROL.MERCEDES-BENZ (MBUSA) SUPPLIED VIDEO SHOWING A VEHICLE IN THIS CONDITION OPERATING UNDER SEVERAL DIFFERENT SITUATIONS INCLUDING EVASIVE MANEUVERS DEMONSTRATING THE ABILITY OF THE VEHICLE TO BE CONTROLLED EFFECTIVELY WITH A RIDE HEIGHT REDUCED TO THE MINIMUM.ONLY THOSE COMPLAINTS TO ODI AND MBUSA THAT ALLEGED A STEERING INTERFERENCE DURING A REDUCED RIDE HEIGHT CONDITION WERE COUNTED IN THIS RESUME FAILURE REPORT.SOME COMPLAINTS ALLEGED THAT WITH A REDUCED RIDE HEIGHT AND A STOP NOW WARNING MESSAGE THERE WAS A RUBBING NOISE WHEN TURNING, BUT THE ABILITY TO STEER THE VEHICLE WAS NOT COMPROMISED.A SAMPLING OF WARRANTY CLAIMS SUBMITTED BY MBUSA DID NOT REVEAL ANY INDICATING A LOSS OF CONTROL DUE TO AN AIRMATIC SYSTEM FAILURE.THERE WAS ONE CRASH REPORTED BY MBUSA TO ODI BUT THE INFORMATION AVAILABLE INDICATED THAT IT RELATED TO SUSPENSION SYSTEMS AND IT WAS NOT POSSIBLE TO VERIFY THAT THE INCIDENT WAS RELATED TO AN AIRMATIC SYSTEM FAILURE. FURTHER USE OF AGENCY RESOURCES IN THIS MATTER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE WARRANTED.THE AGENCY WILL CONTINUE TO MONITOR COMPLAINTS AND OTHER INFORMATION RELATING TO THE ALLEGED DEFECT IN THE SUBJECT VEHICLES AND WILL TAKE FURTHER ACTION IN THE FUTURE IF WARRANTED.THIS PRELIMINARY EVALUATION IS CLOSED.

The contact owns a 2004 Mercedes-Benz S430. The contact stated that the electric conductor from the blower motor to the fuse holder overheated and melted the fuse. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The VIN was not included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 04V227000 (Electrical System). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 78,000.

NHTSA ID

11480019

Incident

Jul 20, 2022

Mileage

78,000 mi

IF THE TRUNK LID IS MANUALLY LIFTED, IT MAY NOT REMAIN IN THE UP POSITION AND COULD CAUSE INJURY IF IT COMES DOWN WHILE SOMEONE IS REACHING INTO THE TRUNK. THIS HAPPENED TO ME SEVERAL TIMES.

NHTSA ID

11289649

Incident

Dec 17, 2019

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MERCEDES-BENZ S430. DUE TO INADEQUATE ILLUMINATION OF THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, THE CONTACT WAS NOT ABLE TO READ THE GAUGES AND INDICATORS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE FUSE WAS REPLACED FOR THE GAUGES, BUT THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER STILL WAS NOT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 188,872.

NHTSA ID

11258159

Incident

Sep 8, 2019

Mileage

188,872 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MERCEDES-BENZ S430. WHILE STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DID NOT ILLUMINATE AND THE SCREEN WAS DARK. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN A RECALL. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 175,000.

NHTSA ID

11029984

Incident

Sep 25, 2017

Mileage

175,000 mi

WHILE DRIVING AIRMATIC STRUT SNAPPED HIM HALF ON THE FREEWAY. WHOLE CAR DROPPED AND HAD TO TOW VEHICLE TO SHOP. REPLACED THE AIRMATIC STRUT AND NOW ABS SENSOR CAME ON AND DOESNT GO AWAY. REPLACED SENSOR AND STILL WONT GO AWAY SO NOW I LOST CRUISE CONTROL, BRAKES WEIRD, AND LOST ESP CONTROL WITH HEAVY STEERING. COMMON ISSUE ON THIS VEHICLE WITH THE AIRMATIC SUSPENSION.

NHTSA ID

10966175

Incident

Mar 1, 2017

Mileage

100,000 mi

CAR STUCK ON PARK, WONT RELEASE GEAR DUE TO FAULTY PLASTIC SAFETY FEATURE THAT CRACKS OVER TIME DUE TO INFERIOR MATERIAL. HAVE TO REPLACE WHOLE GEAR BOX OR REMOVE SAFETY PIN WHICH CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT SINCE LEVER WILL SHIFT WHITOUT PRESSING BRAKE OR IGNITION ON.

NHTSA ID

10966174

Incident

Jan 18, 2017

Mileage

98,000 mi

THIS VEHICLE OFTEN DROPS LOWER, WHILE IN MOTION. THIS IS HAZARDOUS! I HAVE HAD THIS AIRMATIC AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM REPAIRED THREE TIMES ON THIS VEHICLE WITHIN THE LAST THREE YEARS, AND IT APPEARS THIS IS ONE PROBLEM THAT MERCEDES BENZ REFUSES TO CORRECT. IN MY LAST S430, I HAD THE SAME ISSUE, AND HAD TO PAY HUGE AMOUNTS TO FIX THE PROBLEMS. I FEEL NO ONE IS DOING ANYTHING TO GET MERCEDES BENZ TO FIX THIS ONGOING SAFETY ISSUE. I WILL LIKE NHTSA TO GET MERCEDES BENZ TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THESE ONGOING DEFECTS.

NHTSA ID

10883158

Incident

Mar 15, 2016

MY INSTRUMENT CONTROL PANEL BACKLIGHTING EXPERIENCED AN ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION RESULTING IN THE FAILURE TO ILLUMINATE THE GAUGES. THE CONDITION WAS DIAGNOSED BY MY INDEPENDENT MECHANIC ON 06/06/16. IN DOING SO HE INFORMED ME OF RECALL CAMPAIGN NUMBER 06V-028. I WAS TOLD THAT THE REMEDY IS FOR THE MANUFACTURER TO REPLACE THE CLUSTER MODULE FREE OF CHARGE AND THAT I WOULD NEED TO CALL MERCEDES BENZ CORPORATE TO SCHEDULE A REPLACEMENT. I CALLED MERCEDES AND SPOKE WITH ERIC AT EXT 7806 WITHOUT ANY SATISFACTION AT ALL. AS A MATTER OF FACT, HE DISCOURAGED ME FROM ESCALATING MY CALL TO HIS BOSS FOR 10 MINUTES BEFORE I BECAME IRATE AND DEMANDED TO SPEAK WITH A MANAGER. AT THAT POINT I SPOKE WITH CASE MANAGER JOE FROM EXT 6299. I WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS CORPORATE POLICY TO NOT GIVE OUT THEIR LAST NAMES. AFTER LENGHTLY VERBAL SPARRING THAT DIDN'T AMOUNT TO ANY SATISFACTION, I WAS TOLD THE CAMPAIGN EXPIRED IN 2013. JOE SAID HE COULD OFFER ME SOME ASSISTANCE IF I WANTED TO PURCHASE A NEW MERCEDES. (SERIOUSLY?) I THEN CALLED THE US DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION AND GOT A DIFFERENT CAMPAIGN ASSESSMENT. I WAS TOLD THAT THE CAMPAIGN EXPIRED 10 YEARS FROM THE RULING DATE OF 2006. IN THIS CASE, THAT WOULD MEAN THE CAMPAIGN WOULD END IN 2016. WITH THAT SAID, I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE THE 2013 EXPIRATION DATE CAME FROM. WITH THAT BEING SAID, I FEEL THE NEED TO MAKE THIS COMPLAINT IN HOPES OF GETTING TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS CONFLICTING INFORMATION. I WAS TOLD THAT I SHOULD TAKE IT TO A MB DEALERSHIP FOR DIAGNOSIS AT MY COST, FOLLOWED BY A REPLACEMENT AT MY COST AS WELL. CUSTOMER SERVICE WAS VERY CURT AND DIDN'T ATTEMPT TO CARE ABOUT MY PLIGHT NOT EVEN SLIGHTLY. I'M TAKING THIS MEASURE AS I CANT AFFORD TO INCUR THIS COST FROM A MB DEALERSHIP. BTW, THE CAR WAS IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY DURING A LONG TRIP WHEN THIS OCCURRED. VERY FRIGHTENING!

NHTSA ID

10874041

Incident

Jun 4, 2016

Mileage

90 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).