2002 Mercedes-Benz S430

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES-BENZ S430. THE CONTACT STATED THAT ILLUMINATION OF THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WAS INADEQUATE TO SEE THE GAUGES. FLETCHER JONES IMPORTS (7300 W SAHARA AVE, LAS VEGAS, NV 89117, (702) 364-2700) WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE WARRANTY EXPIRED IN 2012. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT A DIAGNOSTIC TEST NEEDED TO BE PERFORMED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 06V028000 (INTERIOR LIGHTING) AS A POSSIBLE SOLUTION TO THE FAILURE HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 209,000.

NHTSA ID

11377484

Incident

Sep 12, 2019

Mileage

209,000 mi

I HAVE APPROXIMATELY 104,000 MILES, I CANNOT SEE IT ANYMORE BECAUSE WHILE DRIVING HOME AT NIGHT FROM THE AIRPORT ON THE EXPRESSWAY DOING 65 MILES PER HOUR, IT WENT BLACK. ALL THE GAUGES WERE FOUND STUCK IN THEIR LOCATION THE NEXT MORNING AT WHAT THEY WERE AT WHEN THE CLUSTER WENT BLACK. THE CLUSTER HAS NEVER RECOVERED AND I HAVE TO DRIVE WITH NO IDEA OF SPEED, SIGNALS OPERATION, FUEL LEVEL, OR WATER TEMP. THE INFORMATION DISPLAY IS ALSO BLANK SO I DON’T KNOW WHAT MY MILEAGE IS OR IF THE VEHICLE HAS ANY OTHER INFORMATION TO GIVE ME. I HAD TO DRIVE HOME 60 MILES IN THE DARK. MY HEADLIGHTS GO ON ALL BY ITSELF WHENEVER I START MY CAR NOW. MY CLIMATE CONTROL ALSO REMAINS LIT AND CAUSES A BATTERY DRAIN OVER A PERIOD OF TIME. I WAS VERY LUCKY TO MAKE IT HOME BUT NOW I CAN ONLY DRIVE DURING THE DAYTIME UNTIL I CAN GET MY INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPAIRED. MY COMFORT LEVEL DRIVING THIS VEHICLE HAS DIMINISHED GREATLY, THIS VEHICLE IS MY FAMILY VEHICLE, DOES MERCEDES BENZ NOT CARE ANYMORE. IF ONE OF THEIR FAMILY MEMBERS WERE TO PERISH IN AN ACCIDENT AS A RESULT OF THIS PROBLEM I’M PRETTY SURE THEY WOULD IMMEDIATELY FIND A SOLUTION TO FIX IT.

NHTSA ID

11150205

Incident

Nov 7, 2018

Mileage

104,400 mi

INSTRUMENT LIGHTS WENT OUT, CAN'T SEE SPEED OR OTHER DASH INFORMATION SUCH AS FUEL. REAR SUSPENSION LOOSES AIR, CAR SITS TO LOW TO DRIVE, BODY SITS ON REAR TIRES. HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING CITY STREET, TIRES SMOKED AND ARE PITTED.

NHTSA ID

11128840

Incident

May 29, 2018

THE BATTERY LOCATED IN THE TRUNK OF THE VEHICLE IS SITUATED NEXT TO THE GAS TANK. THERE ARE NO COVERS ON THE METAL PARTS ON THE TOP OF THE BATTERY LOCATED IN THE TRUNK OF THE VEHICLE, AND THE MAT THAT COMES WITH THE VEHICLE DOES NOT SUFFICIENTLY COVER THESE METAL POLES, LEAVING THEM VULNERABLE TO CATCH FLAME WHEN METAL ITEMS ARE IN THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE. THE REAR BATTERY CAUGHT FLAME, WHILE STATIONARY, DUE TO A METAL ROD USED FOR FURNITURE ASSEMBLY TOUCHING THE EXPOSED PORTION OF THE BATTERY.

NHTSA ID

11047153

Incident

Sep 2, 2017

Mileage

110,000 mi

WHILE DRIVING ON 12/10/2016, THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PANEL WENT VERY DARK. AT NIGHT THERE WAS NO ILLUMINATION EITHER. ALSO THE SPEEDOMETER WAS FLUCTUATING WILDLY FROM HIGH TO LOW AND BACK. I COULD ONLY SEE THIS WITH MY INTERIOR LIGHT ON, AS THE DASH PANEL WAS DARK. I REALIZED I COULD NOT READ ANY OF THE OTHER THE GAUGES INCLUDING THE SAFETY WARNING DISPLAY PANEL, NOR DID THE TURN SIGNALS INSIDE THE VEHICLE WORK OR THE VOLUME CONTROL ON THE STEERING WHEEL. THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION AT THE TIME. THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 06V028000 (INTERIOR LIGHTING). ON 12/15/16 THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF MY FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER INFORMED ME THAT IT WAS NOT A RECALL BUT A "VOLUNTARY EXTENDED WARRANTY ISSUE". THE MANUFACTURER EXPLAINED TO ME THAT MY CAR WAS PART OF IT, BUT I WAS "OUT OF TIME" WITH MY REQUEST FOR REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT. AT THE TIME THE CAR HAD APPROXIMATELY 195,000 ON IT. THIS IS THE 5TH MERCEDES I HAVE OWNED, READING FROM THE BLOGS THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM, HENCE THE NHTSA INVOLVEMENT. MINE IS A DOCUMENTED FAILED CASE UNDER MERCEDES RECOGNIZED PROGRAM, BUT THEY FAIL TO FOLLOW-UP WITH THEIR EXTENDED WARRANTY COVERAGE BECAUSE IT IS OUT OF TIME. WHETHER IT IS IN TIME OR OUT OF TIME A SAFETY FAILURE IS A SAFETY FAILURE. ONE WOULD THINK THAT A COMPANY LIKE MERCEDES BENZ WOULD WANT TO KEEP ALIVE A 5 TIME OWNER OF MERCEDES AND PUT BRAND LOYALTY OVER PROFIT. I HAVE THREE CHILDREN NOW ENTERING THEIR CAR OWNING YEARS. THEY HAVE GROWN UP WITH MERCEDES BUT I GUESS IT IS NOW TIME TO SHOW THEM ANOTHER CAR BRAND SO THEY CAN BE A CUSTOMER FOR LIFE TO ANOTHER AUTOMOBILE COMPANY, ONE THAT WILL PLACE THEIR LIFE AHEAD OF THE PROFIT ON AN INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. I ASK THE NHTSA TO FORCE MERCEDES TO RECALL THESE SAFETY PRONE CARS SUCH THEY CANNOT HIDE BEHIND THEIR "OUT OF TIME" EXCUSE. *TR

NHTSA ID

10935564

Incident

Dec 10, 2016

Mileage

195,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES-BENZ S430. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BECAME INOPERABLE AND THE VEHICLE LOST POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO BE DRIVEN TO THE CONTACT'S RESIDENCE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 108,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

NHTSA ID

10876363

Incident

Jun 19, 2016

Mileage

108,000 mi

WHILE DRIVING DURING DAYLIGHT HOURS ON FRIDAY, 6/17/2016, I NOTICED THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PANEL WAS VERY DARK. THE CAR WAS NOT DRIVEN AGAIN UNTIL DUSK, ON SATURDAY, 6/18/2016 AND I REALIZED ALL OF THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS WERE OUT, THE GAUGES WERE NOT WORKING NOR DID THE TURN SIGNALS INSIDE THE VEHICLE OR THE AUTOMATIC LOCKS, WORK OR THE VOLUME CONTROL ON THE STEERING WHEEL. THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION AT THE TIME OF THIS DISCOVERY

NHTSA ID

10875334

Incident

Jun 17, 2016

Mileage

92,500 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES-BENZ S430. WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FAILED TO ILLUMINATE WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL CLUSTER FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,500.

NHTSA ID

10875241

Incident

Jun 16, 2016

Mileage

60,500 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).