2002 Mercedes-Benz ML320

ODI opened the investigation based on reports that the subject vehicle brake lamp switch (switch) failure caused 1) inoperative brake lamps (stay on or fail to illuminate), and/or 2) shift interlock failure (shifter locked in park), and/or 3) the cruise control to fail to cancel with brake application.Consumers also reported the illumination of a warning lamp on the instrument panel.The switch contains three sets of electrical contacts and a (normally extended) spring loaded plunger that actuates the contacts as it moves.As installed in the vehicle, the plunger contacts the brake pedal arm and is pushed into the switch; as the driver applies the pedal the plunger extends.One set of contacts (BLS) operates the stop lamps, a second set (EWM) controls the shift interlock system, and a third set (BS) is used by an on-board diagnostic (OBD) system to monitor switch operation.The cruise control monitors the BLS signal to determine when the brake is applied, the primary way the system is disabled when set.The relative timing of contact actuation in response to plunger movement allows the OBD system to detect a switch fault.When a fault is detected a malfunction indication lamp (MIL) is illuminated (driver alert), a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored (for the service technician), and cruise control operation is inhibited (as a failsafe).In its response to ODI's January 2011 information request letter, MB explained its assessment of switch failures which was based primarily on evaluation of field return failures.MB identified both 1) electrical contact and 2) mechanical switch failure mechanisms.According to MB's analysis, electrical contact failure is the predominate failure type and the failure consequence depends on which contact fails.For instance MB claims that BLS contact failures are momentary in nature and do not affect brake light operation but are nonetheless detected by the OBD system, resulting in a DTC and subsequent replacement.Electrical contact failures of the BS and EWM contacts result in a DTC also, and EWM contact failures result in the shifter being stuck in the park (which can be overridden by the consumer).Accordingly MB maintains that electrical contact failures of the switch have no safety consequence since the brake lamps remain operational and the cruise control is always disabled.MB determined that mechanical failures of the switch, which are rare in their assessment, can result from internal wear and/or increased switch operating temperatures.High temperatures occur due to overheating of the BLS contacts and can cause the internal plastic components to melt.In one scenario overheated BLS contacts may melt to the extended plunger and are damaged when the brake pedal is released resulting in the brake lights staying on.In another scenario the increased temperatures and/or internal wear can cause the plunger to stick in the fully depressed position.In this case the cruise may not cancel when the brake is applied and the driver may have to use high brake pedal forces or other means (shifting to neutral or using the cruise master switch) to disengage the cruise.Additionally the vacuum assist can be depleted if the driver pumps the brakes resulting in reduced braking effectiveness and even higher pedal forces.In its March 31, 2011 defect notification, MB stated that to remediate the potential need for excessive brake force it would conduct a safety recall (11V-208) to replace the switch with a more robustly designed component.The recall includes 136,751 model year 2000 - 2002 M-Class and model year 2000 - 2004 M-Class AMG vehicles.Owner notification letters will be mailed

The contact owns a 2002 Mercedes-Benz ML320. The contact stated while driving at approximately 25 MPH, the driver’s side front wheel independently braked. The contact stated he had not depressed the brake pedal but heard an abnormal sound from the tire screeching as the wheel had stopped rolling. The contact stated that the ESP traction warning light was illuminated. The contact pulled the vehicle over, turned off, restarted the vehicle, and was able to continue driving. The contact stated that the failure occurred several minutes later. The contact stated that the failure occurred one other time and had not happened again. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a local dealer or independent. The vehicle had not been diagnosed and was not repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 198,000.

NHTSA ID

11586737

Incident

Apr 30, 2024

Mileage

198,000 mi

The car brakes suddenly by itself just after the ESB/ABS lights come on along with an exclamation point (!). This has happened randomly at least 4 times since we purchased the car. Once at high speeds on the highway. It appears this problem is common with other owners of Mercedes 2001-2002 ML's. According to the forums below, the problem seems to be a "YAW RATE SENSOR" malfunction or defect. My Mercedes mechanic saw no error codes for this component and it seem extremely expensive (forum states part is $3000) to replace. The https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w163/233486-big-problems-ml320-pls-help-2.html

NHTSA ID

11462862

Incident

Apr 7, 2022

FUSE BOX SOME HAS POWER SOME NOT. FRONT LEFT WHEEL MAKING THIS NOISE AND STOPS AFTER 25 MILES PER HOUR RADIO VOLUME LOW WHEN IGNITION KEY IS ON POSITION 3 WHEN KEY IT'S IN THE POSITION 2 LAUD VOLUME WHEN KEY IS NOT IN I CAN TURN ON THE STEREO

NHTSA ID

11298583

Incident

Jan 6, 2020

Mileage

203,000 mi

FRONT END COLLISION - AIRBAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY.

NHTSA ID

11165069

Incident

Dec 8, 2018

YES THIS [XXX] COMING TO YOU TO LET YOU KNOW THAT I WAS AND A CAR ACCIDENT I WAS STRUCK BY AND VEHICLE MADE BY OLDSMOBILE YEAR 1998 PLATE NO. STATE [XXX] I WAS ON MY WAY HOME FROM DOWN TOWN FEDERAL COURT I WAS RIDING DOWN [XXX] CRASH DATE 08/21/2018. I WAS AT THE RED LIGHT I ALSO HAD MY HAZARD LIGHTS ON ALSO NOW I WAS SITTING AT THE RED LIGHT WAITING FOR THE TRAFFIC LIGHT TO TURN GREEN NEXT THING I KNOW THE SENIOR CITIZEN THE GUY WHO HIT ME FROM BEHIND. NEXT THING I KNOW MY 2002 ML320 MERCEDES BENZ DID A WHOLE 360 DEGREE SPIN AROUND I DIDN'T PANIC I WAS JUST AND TOTAL SHOCK I GOT OUT THE CAR AND WALK TO THE CAR TO CHECK IN SEE WAS THE PERSON OKAY OR NOT BECAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW WHO WAS DRIVING THE CAR WHEN I LOOK IN REALIZE IT WAS A SENIOR CITIZEN I ASK HIM ARE YOU OKAY HE SAID YES BUT HE WAS KIND OF DAZE I NOTICE THE CAR WAS LEAKING REAL BAD SO I STOOD ALL THE WAY BACK FOR MY SAFETY REASON BECAUSE THE PERSON WHO HIT ME WHICH IS THE SENIOR CITIZEN STARED TO SMOKE SO I STOOD ALL THE WAY BACK CAUSE I THOUGHT THE CAR WAS GO BLOW UP BUT I THANK GOD IT DIDN'T. SO THE AMBULANCE ARRIVE ON THE CAR ACCIDENT. THEY TOOK THE PERSON WHO HIT ME TO THE HOSPITAL. WHICH HE LIVED THEN ALL THE POLICE FORCES CAME I MEAN EVERY TOP LAW CAME PACE BY PACE TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WAS OKAY. LONG STORY SHORT. MY CAR WAS INVOLVE IN A CAR ACCIDENT OH YEAR I HAD MY SEAT BELT ON TOO SAFETY FIRST. GOD BLESS YOU ALL ALWAYS BUCKLE UP AND CHECK ALL YOU MIRROR. HAVE A NICE DAY. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

NHTSA ID

11128295

Incident

Aug 21, 2018

"TAKATS RECALL" 1ST ISSUE I NOTICED IS WHEN I GAVE SOMEONE A JUMP OFF A DEAD CAR BATTERY. AS I WAS DRIVEN I NOTICED MY CAR BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON MEANING MY BATTERY WAS DECREASING POWER AND IT DID I WAS ON MY WAY HOME DRIVEN I NOTICED MY CAR LOSING POWER IN THE CAR SHUT COMPLETELY OFF SO I PULLED TO THE SIDE AND I CALLED SOMEONE TO GIVE ME A JUMP THE CAR STARTED BACK UP DROVE ABOUT 3, BLOCKS AND THE CAR SHUT COMPLETELY OFF AGAIN SO I PURCHASED A BRAND NEW BATTERY REPLACING THE OLD BATTERY WITH AN NEW ONE. GOT ANOTHER JUMP TO GIVE THE THE BATTERY SOME EXTRA JUICE. AFTER I RECEIVED THE JUMP I'M BACK ON THE ROAD. IN THE ANCIENT OCCUR AGAIN SO I CALLED SOMEONE TO GIVE ME A JUMP. THIS TIME THE CAR DIDN'T START. SO I HAD TO GET IT TOW HOME. GOT HOME DID SOME RESEARCH IN FOUND OUT IT WAS THE ALTERNATOR. REPLACE THE OLD ALTERNATOR WITH A NEW ONE. 2ND ISSUE I NOTICED AFTER I REPLACED THE OLD ALTERNATOR WITH THE NEW ONE I NOTICED MY TWO FANS BLOWER WILL CONTINUOUSLY RUN FOR HOURS WHEN I TAKE MY CAR KEYS OUT OF THE IGNITION. AND DUE TO THAT THAT CAUSE MY DRAINED MY BATTERY CAUSING ME TO LOSE POWER AND MY CAR WON'T BE ABLE TO START WHEN I PUT MY KEY IN THE IGNITION I DON'T KNO IF THEY CONNECTED A WIRE TO KEEP RUNNING IF SO HE WAS TO SUPPOSED TO TELL ME THAT WHICH HE DIDN'T. 3RD ISSUE I NOTICED I RECENTLY ADDED NEW FRONT PADS AND ROTOR'S NEW REAR PADS AND ROTORS 1 NEW REAR PASSSGER SIDE BRAKE CALIPER. MY BRAKE LIGHTS STILL APPEARED TO POP UP I TOLD THE MERCHANT HE TOLD ME IT COULD BE A SENSOR FAILURE AND GET CHECK OUT AT A MERCEDES BENZ DEALER. 4TH ISSUE THE TRIANGLE LIGHT LOCATED IN THE CENTER OF DASH FLASHES OCCASIONALLY CAUSING UNDER CERTAIN CIRCUMSTANCES, TAPPING THE BRAKE PEDAL MAY NOT AUTOMATICALLY DISENGAGE CRUISE CONTROL AS EXPECTED IN CERTAIN MODEL YEAR RECALL SUBJECT: SUSPENSION: FRONT CONTROL ARM UPPER ARM .RECALL: 6/SERVICE BULLETINS: 2

NHTSA ID

11102558

Incident

Jun 18, 2018

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES-BENZ ML320. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR CONDITIONER FAILED TO TURN OFF WHEN THE ENGINE WAS TURNED OFF. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS DIFFICULT TO START. THE CONTACT PURCHASED AND INSTALLED A NEW ALTERNATOR; HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE BATTERY WAS ALSO REPLACED, BUT THE ENGINE STILL TOOK SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE CONTACT SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT WITH PRIME TIME NISSAN OF SCHERERVILLE (1301 INDIANAPOLIS BLVD, SCHERERVILLE, IN 46375) FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

NHTSA ID

11102413

Incident

Jun 12, 2018

MAJOR STEERING PROBLEMS

NHTSA ID

11075564

Incident

Mar 1, 2018

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.