2003 Mercedes-Benz SL500

THE SUBJECT S-CLASS VEHICLES CONTAIN A COMPRESSED AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM THAT USES AIR STRUTS ON EACH OF THE FOUR WHEELS IN LIEU OF TRADITIONAL SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS.THESE AIR STRUTS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE AND CONTROL RIDE HEIGHT.IN THE EVENT OF THE LOSS OF AIR FROM THE SYSTEM, AN ALERT WILL FLASH ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WARNING THE DRIVER TO EITHER DRIVE CAREFULLY OR TO STOP THE VEHICLE.THE VEHICLE RIDE HEIGHT CAN BE REDUCED BY AS MUCH AS 105 MM BELOW NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT BEFORE THE FULL LOAD OF THE VEHICLE FOR THAT WHEEL COMES TO REST ON A STEEL ROD, WITH A RUBBER STOP ON THE END, LOCATED IN THE SHOCK ABSORBER.THIS REST-STOP CONDITION IS DESIGNED SUCH THAT THERE IS NO IMPACT ON VEHICLE CONTROL.MERCEDES-BENZ (MBUSA) SUPPLIED VIDEO SHOWING A VEHICLE IN THIS CONDITION OPERATING UNDER SEVERAL DIFFERENT SITUATIONS INCLUDING EVASIVE MANEUVERS DEMONSTRATING THE ABILITY OF THE VEHICLE TO BE CONTROLLED EFFECTIVELY WITH A RIDE HEIGHT REDUCED TO THE MINIMUM.ONLY THOSE COMPLAINTS TO ODI AND MBUSA THAT ALLEGED A STEERING INTERFERENCE DURING A REDUCED RIDE HEIGHT CONDITION WERE COUNTED IN THIS RESUME FAILURE REPORT.SOME COMPLAINTS ALLEGED THAT WITH A REDUCED RIDE HEIGHT AND A STOP NOW WARNING MESSAGE THERE WAS A RUBBING NOISE WHEN TURNING, BUT THE ABILITY TO STEER THE VEHICLE WAS NOT COMPROMISED.A SAMPLING OF WARRANTY CLAIMS SUBMITTED BY MBUSA DID NOT REVEAL ANY INDICATING A LOSS OF CONTROL DUE TO AN AIRMATIC SYSTEM FAILURE.THERE WAS ONE CRASH REPORTED BY MBUSA TO ODI BUT THE INFORMATION AVAILABLE INDICATED THAT IT RELATED TO SUSPENSION SYSTEMS AND IT WAS NOT POSSIBLE TO VERIFY THAT THE INCIDENT WAS RELATED TO AN AIRMATIC SYSTEM FAILURE. FURTHER USE OF AGENCY RESOURCES IN THIS MATTER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE WARRANTED.THE AGENCY WILL CONTINUE TO MONITOR COMPLAINTS AND OTHER INFORMATION RELATING TO THE ALLEGED DEFECT IN THE SUBJECT VEHICLES AND WILL TAKE FURTHER ACTION IN THE FUTURE IF WARRANTED.THIS PRELIMINARY EVALUATION IS CLOSED.

To who may this concerned, I have a 2003 Mercedes SL500 and recently found my battery control module caught on fire and burnt a section of my car. I have tried reaching out to Mercedes directly first and they said the car is 20 years ago and it could have not be a manufactured defect. Please I need help this problem could’ve burn down my house or while I was driving. Mercedes requested I send them a letter in writing if I have to get the car inspected. Please setup and date so I can write them this is 100% liability on their brand as there is no schedule maintenance for a battery control module.

NHTSA ID

11557470

Incident

Nov 14, 2023

I am concerned with the battery control module. I have noticed there has been a lot of incidents out there where the battery control module in the SL 500s have caught fire! I am concerned for my safety due to this defect!

NHTSA ID

11556968

Incident

Nov 27, 2023

The contact owns a 2003 Mercedes-Benz SL500. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the ABC warning light illuminated. Additionally, the message "Drive Carefully" was displayed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that the ABC tandem pump, struts, and hoses needed to be replaced. The dealer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that they did not provide service for older vehicles. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 88,000.

NHTSA ID

11540123

Incident

Aug 1, 2023

Mileage

88,000 mi

ABC (Active Body Control) light keeps coming on and body goes up and down when I drove car. Light says do not drive. Mercedes would not take responsibility for this in spite there are so many complaints about this. Really irresponsible by Mercedes.

NHTSA ID

11486932

Incident

May 1, 2017

I was driving my car at 45 mph and suddenly, unexpectedly a red light flashed ABC do not drive. Smoke was coming from under the car and the front end of the vehicle collapsed downwardly. I had to call for a tow truck to take my vehicle to the MB dealership. I'm I am waiting for the prognosis. I've had numerous issues with the All Body Control system. Expensive repairs in the $3000-$8000 range. This is a safety issue the breakdown happens abruptly and I was fortunate other cars weren't on the parkway with me. Otherwise a crash could gave occurred.

NHTSA ID

11474844

Incident

Jul 19, 2022

The contact owns a 2003 Mercedes-Benz SL500. The contact stated while driving 40 MPH, the brake pedal was depressed however, the vehicle failed to respond as needed. The contact depressed the brake pedal firmly however, the vehicle failed to respond. The parking brake was activated however, the vehicle failed to respond as designed. The contact was however able to pull over and eventually the vehicle came to a complete stop. The vehicle was towed. The dealer and the manufacturer were contacted and stated that the VIN was not included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 05V133000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic). The failure mileage was 126,000. The consumer stated the part put on the vehicle for the recall was a defective part and not installed correctly.

NHTSA ID

11474801

Incident

Jul 5, 2022

Mileage

126,000 mi

The 2003 SL500 with seemingly no instigating incident or event had the gas tank baffle come apart due to the poor and faulty design of this component. This baffle now is loose and floats on the gas in the gas tank, banging around when there is acceleration or deceleration, even turning sometimes causes it to bang around. Speed bumps are another source of loud banging from the baffle bumping into the sides of the tank. The issue with 2003 SL500's is ubiquitous, it is not a question of what percentage of them will experience as it appears it will happen to this vehicle at some point due to the poor design and implementation of the baffle. This wouldn't be such a big problem if this was a minor repair and was a reasonable price to have a shop perform or for the more mechanically inclined owner to perform themselves, but it is a ridiculously complex and time-consuming job just to get to the gas tank and take it off. My mechanic told me it is akin to taking the transmission or engine out and as such labor is outstandingly and outrageously expensive with this job requiring approximately $2000-$2500 to perform according to my mechanic and other SL500 owners who have also had to deal with this issue. This is an issue that you may not experience if you don't own one of these vehicles for long enough, but the vehicle will have this problem during it's lifetime and Mercedes should be responsible for allowing such a design to make it into production.

NHTSA ID

11456885

Incident

Feb 14, 2022

The contact owns a 2003 Mercedes-Benz SL500. The contact stated that after parking the vehicle, the following day he noticed that the front of the vehicle was lowered down. The contact stated that the car was too low a warning light was illuminated. The contact stated while starting the vehicle and taking his foot off the brake pedal, the vehicle would raise up independently and would be able to drive to his destination. The contact took the vehicle to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed with needing the front strap suspension to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 52,500.

NHTSA ID

11445617

Incident

Aug 21, 2021

Mileage

52,500 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.