2002 Toyota Land Cruiser

I have purchased this vehicle from the dealer at prestige toyota in ramsey NJ 2002- it was a certified dealer car. I have maintained my car and it still rides well, until about 2 weeks ago i felt the back of the car while driving 65mile hr highway that was curvy,felt like i was going to go out of control and it's never done that before. I took it to Toyota june 8th 2023 to get an oil change, and mechanic said my rear stable bar is missing due to excessive rot and the entire frame is rotted out and is not safe to drive, I am spending $1800.00 to get the AC recharged and rear brakes done. Come to find out that Toyota had recalls on the tundra and sequoia but if they used the same frame, why did they not recommend a fix before this happened, thousands of dollars later. I am not ready to give up my car, I have taken it there many times now my car is unsafe to drive. I am very upset and not ready to put out money for a new car. https://app.mykaarma.com/service-cart/mpi/p9qdyu1adwH03b-7zCmYM4OthQMfVtmzGdv-yqYEUMY/check/Your_CAR_CHECK_ID/media/0/view/1 above link is the video of the car

NHTSA ID

11531221

Incident

Jul 1, 2023

DURING NORMAL LOCAL DRIVING, TRYING TO STOP MY 2002 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER REQUIRES AN IMPOSSIBLE AMOUNT OF PRESSURE ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. ON THE PHONE THE LOCAL TOYOTA DEALER SAID ELECTRIC BRAKE BOOSTER HAS FAILED, AND THE COST TO FIX IT IS ABOUT $4500--A HUGE AMOUNT FOR A 18-YEAR-OLD CAR THAT IS WORTH ONLY $7,000 OR $8,000. IT'S AN AMOUNT THAT IS DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO AFFORD. SO WHEN I NEED TO DRIVE, I HAVE TO DRIVE VERY SLOWLY.

NHTSA ID

11323157

Incident

Nov 14, 2019

Mileage

239,000 mi

A FEW TIMES WHILE TRAVELING AT FWY SPEEDS, AS WE START TO GO UPHILL THE CAR VIOLENTLY SHAKES BACK AND FORTH (STEERING WHEEL HARD TO HOLD ON TO). VSC, TRAC AND THE LIITLE CAR WITH THE SKID MARKS BEHIND IT FLASH ON THE DASH ALONG WITH AN ALARM THAT LASTS FROM 3-5 SECONDS. WE HAVE HAD A HARD TIME KEEPING THE CAR IN THE LANE. ALMOST RAN INTO THE CENTER DIVIDER. WE HAVE TAKEN IT TO OUR PERSONAL MECHANIC, CALLED TOYOTA, TAKEN IT TO TOYOTA OF SAN LUIS DEALERSHIP AND NOBODY HAS BEEN ABLE TO FIND THE PROBLEM. IT IS IN OUR OPINION THAT THIS CAR IN UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND UNSAFE TO SELL.

NHTSA ID

11030394

Incident

Sep 18, 2017

Mileage

209,000 mi

FIRST, MIDDLE SEAT BELT AT THE BACK WERE THE FIRS ONE THAT GOT STUCK, MEANT THE PERSON HAD FASTEN SEAT BELT AND WHEN HE TRIED TO UNFASTEN THE LOCK GOT STUCK WON'T OPEN AND SO WE HAD TO PULL HIM OUT ON THE SIDE TO GET OUT FROM THE SEAT BELT. AND NOW ALMOST ALL THE SEAT BELTS AREN'T WORKING PROPERLY.

NHTSA ID

10760775

Incident

Aug 6, 2015

Mileage

97,000 mi

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2002 LANDCRUISER FROM A TOYOTA DEALER IN GREENSBORO NC. WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY GOING ABOUT 60 MPH, THE VEHICLES SUDDENLY STOPPED RESPONDING TO THE GAS PEDAL...THE ENGINE WAS STILL ON BUT THE CAR WAS NO LONGER GETTING POWER. WE HAD TO PULL OVER, STOP THE CAR. I THEN RESTARTED THE CAR...THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, BUT HE CAR WAS RESPONSIVE AND I DROVE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP. THEY SAID IT WAS THE THROTTLE HOUSING THAT NEEDED A CLEANING. THE ISSUE SEEMS SIMILAR TO THE RECENT LEXUS RECALL . WE HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO PULL OVER BUT IT WAS FRIGHTENING NONETHELESS. THANK YOU FOR LOOKING INTO IT. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

NHTSA ID

10341741

Incident

May 17, 2010

Mileage

69,000 mi

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED TO 40 MPH CRASHING INTO HER SPOUSE WHO SUSTAINED A BROKEN LEG. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INSURED WHEN THE CRASH OCCURRED. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

NHTSA ID

10313883

Incident

Apr 15, 2007

CAR WAS NEW WHEN I PICKED UP AT DEALER. HAVE BEEN BACK WITH DRIVER DOOR WINDOW PROBLEM OVER SIX TIMES. AT THIS TIME THE WINDOW SEAL IS LOOSE AND THE WINDOW WILL NOT CLOSE. IT IS SAD TO PAY 56K AND STILL CAN'T GET THINGS FIXED...SECURITY IS A SAFETY PROBLEM AND I HAVE IT.

NHTSA ID

10206350

Incident

Oct 18, 2007

Mileage

5,000 mi

SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE DEAR SIRS, THIS MONDAY OF THIS WEEK (13 AUGUST 2007) WHEN I WAS PUTTING MY 3-YEAR OLD DAUGHTER'S CARSEAT IN MY TOYOTA, THE PASSENGER SEATBELT JAMMED IN THE FULLY EXTENDED POSITION. I IMMEDIATELY TOOK THE CAR TO MY LOCAL DEALER (TUSCALOOSA TOYOTA) AND I WAS TOLD THAT THE SEAT BELT COULD NOT BE REPAIRED AND WAS NOT COVERED BY A CRADLE-TO-GRAVE WARRANTY, MERELY A 5-YEAR, 60K WARRANTY. I WAS TOLD THAT THE SEAT BELT WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF NEARLY $300. I BELIEVE THAT LEGALLY REQUIRED SAFETY ISSUES ON AUTOMOBILES NEED TO BE COVERED CRADLE-TO-GRAVE AS THEY HAVE PROFOUND IMPLICATIONS IN THE SAFETY OF DRIVERS AND PASSENGERS. AS A SIDE NOTE, AFTER 21 YEARS OF SERVICE MY 86 HONDA CRX NEEDED SIMILAR SERVICE. THIS WAS IMMEDIATELY REMEDIED BY MY LOCAL HONDA DEALER (TOWNSEND HONDA) AT NO COST, WITH NO QUESTIONS ASKED. JAMES WESTON *TR

NHTSA ID

10199891

Incident

Jul 13, 2007

Mileage

54,047 mi

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.

The condition known as acid rain is caused by airborne chemicals or particles in the atmosphere, which mix with rainwater, nighttime dew, or high humidity to form acidic compounds. If these contaminants settle and remain on a painted vehicle surface, especially the horizonal areas of the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage can occur. This damage is the result of actual etching of the paint and appears as pitting or water spots. As acid rain droplets on the vehicle surface evaporate, the concentration strength of the acid increases, causing deeper and more rapid damage. This evaporation and corrosive action also occur more rapidly on dark colored cars as direct sun heat increases. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. In areas known for high frequency and/or concentration of acid rain, frequent vehicle washing during high heat or humidity periods will minimize the potential for paint damage caused by acid rain. It is further recommended that either reverse osmosis or deionized water be used to prevent water spotting.

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.

Toyota vehicles are currently protected with RapgardTM protective film designed to protect the horizontal painted surfaces. This material protects from acid rain, environmental fallout, and rail contamination. Follow the Removal Procedure in this bulletin to remove the RapgardTM protective film within 90 days from initial application.

Vehicles may occasionally be subjected to contamination by airborne iron particles shed from railroad tracks, train wheels, exposure to heavy machinery facilities, grinding, welding, etc. This type of contamination can be identified by the presence of small, red or brown particles on the paint surface. These particles are often difficult to see on dark color paints but can be easily felt when brushing a hand across horizontal body surfaces such as the hood, roof, or deck lid. Follow the Repair Procedure in this bulletin to clean vehicles that may have been subjected to contamination by airborne iron particles such as rail dust during rail transportation or extended storage near industrial areas.

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.